Golden Week in Japan
Have you heard of Japan’s Golden Week? This is a unique period from April 29th to early May that contains four closely spaced holidays: Shōwa Day (April 29), Constitution Day (May 3), Greenery Day (May 4), and Children’s Day (May 5).
As this is one of the longest holidays in Japan, many celebrations and festivals take place throughout the country. At Tsuetate Onsen, in Kumamoto Kyushu, you can view a majestic display of thousands of carp streamers fluttering above a rushing river during the Children’s Day Carp Festival.
Continue reading to learn more about the charming hot spring village, Tsuetate Onsen, and see what the Golden Week Festivities are like!
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Table of Contents
- Koinobori Carp Festival for Children’s Day
- Getting to Tsuetate Onsen (By Bus)
- What to Do in Tsuetate Onsen
- Where to Stay in Tsuetate Onsen
- Final Thoughts
Koinobori Carp Festival for Children’s Day
Carp streamers or koinobori (鯉のぼり) are an iconic decoration used to celebrate Children’s Day. These colored fabric fish can span meters long and are displayed to honor children and bless them with a future of health and strength.
Koi is a symbol of Children’s Day as it is considered an incredibly spirited and lively animal – so full of power and determination that it can swim upriver despite rushing streams and cascades. The koi’s tenacity to overcome obstacles mirrors the same goal parents have for children to grow up strong and resilient.
Tsuetate Onsen in Kumamoto prefecture holds a Koinobori Carp festival every year. It’s a dazzling sight you won’t want to miss!
How to Get to Tsuetate Onsen (By Bus)
Tsuetate Onsen is located on the border of Oita and Kumamoto prefectures in the middle of Kyushu Island. The area is known for its high-quality hot springs and nostalgic ambiance. Transportation is limited for those without cars, but a bus route allows for relatively easy (though infrequent) travel from Fukuoka’s Hakata and Tenjin Bus Terminals.
Purchasing Bus Tickets
I had difficulties getting Google Maps to show the desired bus route correctly. However, you can find current timetables for riding the Highway Bus‘s Kurokawa Onsen line to Tsuetate Onsen on this page.
Scroll down to the section that says “福岡〜黒川線”. The left blue button will show the timetable to Fukuoka and the right blue button will show the timetable from Fukuoka.
Note that bus travel requires reservations. Tickets can be arranged in person at major Bus Terminals like the Hakata Bus Terminal, or purchased online through websites (Japanese, English).
The Bus Ride
The bus ride from Hakata to Tsuetate takes just around two hours. Once you get out of the city, prepare yourself to “ooh” and “aah” out the window as the most beautiful scenery passes by. (The last hour of the ride was honestly one of the most scenic bus rides I’ve been on).
Side note: If you visit during Golden Week, the location of the Tsuetate Bus stop may be different than usual.
*Since Golden Week is the most popular time to visit the area, traffic, and parking can be difficult for those coming by car.
What to Do in Tsuetate Onsen
You made it to Tsuetate Onsen! It’s time to unwind in the small onsen village and take in the Golden Week festivities.
While the town is small, it is still a nice place to slow down and relax in a valley of nature.
View the Car Streamers
Take in the view of the flying carp from various places around town. You can relax by the river or stand on one of the many bridges to get a different perspective of the more than 3,000 swimming fish. When the wind picks up, they flutter in the air in ripples of rainbow color.
Buy a Carp Shaped Ema
One of the best places to see the carp is on Momiji Bridge which is located downriver at the edge of town. In addition to seeing all the hanging streamers, you can buy an ema, a small wooden plaque, to write your wishes and hang on the bridge. Ema cost ￥300 and come in different shapes like carp, hearts, and a bear (Kumomoto’s mascot is a bear).
Eat Steamed Eggs and Other Food
On the opposite side of town from Momiji Bridge, you can find small stalls selling Tsuetate pudding, charcoal-grilled food, ice cream, curry, and onsen steamed eggs. Order your favorites and enjoy your snack sitting by the river.
A cup of pudding cost ￥320 and had sweet caramel at the bottom. Be sure to mix it before eating!
The salted steamed egg was ￥100 yen. To me, it tasted just like a regular boiled egg…
Charcoal-grilled fish and chicken for ￥800.
Steam Your Own Food
If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, Tsuetate Onsen has special “steam-it-yourself” locations around town. Since the area is gushing with hot water and billowing steam, these little stalls were built so that anyone can steam-cook their own food as they like.
Each location has directions on how to use the steamer station including recommended steaming times. There are even vending machines around town that sell eggs, potatoes, and vegetables for steaming.
Walk the Narrow Streets
After eating, explore the sedoyas, or small back-alley streets. These narrow roads twist and turn between the tightly packed buildings and occasionally offer a nice view of the river from above.
Where to Stay in Tsuetate Onsen
Many families who drive to Tsuetate Onsen only come for the day before heading home. If you’re limited to the bus schedule, however, this could make your trip quite rushed. Instead, how about staying the night at one of the traditional Japanese-style inns called ryokans?
Here is a list of hotels provided by the Tsuetate Onsen association with links to book directly on the different sites. (I usually book my accommodations in Japan using Booking.com or Agoda, but there are not many listings on these sites for this area.)
The ryokans at Tsuetate Onsen date back many years, some 100 to over 300 years old!
Hakusui-so Ryokan (旅館白水荘)
Luckily I was able to find a place that accommodates solo travelers: Hakusui-so Ryokan (旅館白水荘).
Not only can you soak up the culture that comes with staying in a ryokan (sleeping on a futon in a tatami room, working the thin sliding paper and wood doors, wearing a yukata, and eating traditional food), but you also have the opportunity to take a dip in one of the famous onsen baths.
The water from the hot springs in Tsuetate is said to contain a high amount of metasilicic acid – a natural moisturizing ingredient that is good for the skin.
Here is a list of the hot springs in the area. Some are for guests of that ryokan only, but others allow for drop-in visitors and even have private baths for families to enjoy together.
Final Thoughts
Tsuetate Onsen is a bit out of the way if you live in one of the major cities, but if you make the venture out, you will be rewarded with a humble sanctuary full of history and nature.
If you are looking to make a bigger trip out of a Tsuetate adventure, you can add Hita to the itinerary. Hita lies in between central Fukuoka and Tsuetate Onsen, and is also accessible by bus. It is another quiet town that is preserved in its times and is sometimes referred to as the Kyoto of Kyushu!
Are you interested in more Japan adventures? Make sure to check out these blog posts too!
- Kurokawa Onsen Village: Onsen Hopping and Overnight Stay – Try onsen hopping in a beautiful mountain village!
- Craft Inn 手 [té]: An Immersive Art Experience in Yame, Fukuoka – Stay overnight in a beautiful Japanese Inn surrounded by art.
- Herbal Steam Bath Detox –Kannawa Mushiyu in Beppu, Oita – Are you a fan of onsens? Learn about this special herbal steam bath in Oita!
- Aizome Traditional Indigo Dyeing in Kurume – Try your hand at traditional indigo dyeing in Kurume!