Tsushima Island in Nagasaki Prefecture is widely known within the gaming community as the stage for the action-adventure game, “Ghost of Tsushima.” Not playing many games myself these days, I only recently learned about Tsushima but was immediately intrigued by the area’s fascinating history and geography.
Relatively near Fukuoka, yet tucked away in the waters between Korea and Japan, Tsushima flew under my radar for the past couple of years. However, I finally learned about the island and was able to make a visit!
In this article, learn about the different activities, food, and sights I experienced during my first trip to Tsushima. I’ll also share about the island’s history!
Disclaimer: My trip was planned and funded by Japan’s Agency for Cultural Affairs. This article was not contracted, and all opinions and thoughts expressed are my own.
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Table of Contents
- Tsushima’s Unique Geography
- Access – How to Get to Tsushima Island
- Kayaking Around Aso Bay
- Climbing Mt. Joyama and Exploring Kaneda Fortress Ruins
- Tsushima Buddhist Temple Stay at Seizanji
- Komodo Hama Shrine
- Stone Roof Houses
- Kawachi Sake Brewery
- Seafood Delicacies
- Final Thoughts
Tsushima’s Unique Geography
Off the northwestern coast of Kyushu’s main Island, Tsushima is a part of Nagasaki prefecture situated in a unique geographical position – closer to Busan, Korea, than any other part of Japan. The jetfoil boat ride from Hitakatsu Port to Busan Port is only 70-90 minutes long compared to the ride to Fukuoka which takes about 2.5 hours!
Located in the middle of a sea shared by many countries, Tsushima served as Japan’s first line of defense during wartime.
Spanning 82 km North to South, Tsushima is quite large. It takes over 2 hours to drive from Hitakatsu Port in the North to Izuhara Port in the South!
Access – How to Get to Tsushima Island
Now that we know where Tsushima is located, how does one get there? There are several ways to reach the island, either by boat or plane.
From Fukuoka (by boat)
Large ferries that transport cars and passengers, as well as high-speed jetfoils operate between Tsushima’s two ports and Hakata Port in Fukuoka. By high-speed jetfoil, it takes about 2.5 hours to reach Tsushima.
By ferry, the trip takes 5–6 hours. Overnight ferries allow travel during the evening with arrival early the next morning, which can be good for saving time. Travel by ferry is cheaper than by jetfoil.
Find timetables and book your sea travel here: Kyushu Yusen
From Fukuoka (by airplane)
The flight to Tsushima’s Yamaneko Airport from Fukuoka Airport is very short, just 35 minutes. JAL and ANA operate this route.
From Nagasaki (by airplane)
You can also reach Tsushima from Nagasaki. By plane, it takes about 35 minutes.
Tsushima Airport
Tsushima’s Yamaneko Airport is super tiny and only operates one gate. Security opens 1 hour before takeoff, so there isn’t much need to arrive at the airport earlier than this. Inside the airport, there is a small souvenir shop.
Traveling Around Tsushima Island
The easiest way to travel around Tsushima is by rental car since public transportation is limited and the island is quite large.
Kayaking Around Aso Bay
The first activity I did in Tsushima was kayaking on the waters of Aso Bay. The company, Tsushima Eco Tour, provided kayaks, paddles, gloves, waterproof phone cases, and footwear. Since it was winter when I visited, I also wore waterproof pants and a jacket.
After receiving a brief introduction to paddling and steering, I was out on the water, heading along the coast.
The weather was a bit cold, but not as bad as I had expected. I did not want to flip though, so I took extra care when paddling.
The water was very clear and the sky bright blue behind the mountains in front.
Along the way, we passed Nokowaki-iwa, a sheer cliff in the middle of the water towering over 40 meters high.
A little further from Nokowaki-iwa, we reached Okido Shrine. Here we disembarked to see the shrine up close and walk a bit in the forest.
Up the mountain a short way was the first section of ruins from the ancient Kaneda Fortress stone wall. The original wall was built over 1,300 years ago to protect Japan from potential invasion. It is said that other parts of the wall were expanded during the Edo period.
I learned that the Kaneda Fortress Ruins are one of only 64 government-designated special historic sites in Japan!
There was another section of the rock wall further up the mountain.
After seeing these remains, we returned to the kayaks and retraced our way back to the starting point. There was a strong headwind this time, so travel was much slower and my arms got a workout from all the paddling.
Climbing Mt. Joyama and Exploring Kaneda Fortress Ruins
The next day, I geared up for a hike around Mt. Joyama to see the Kaneda Fortress Ruins in more detail.
It was super windy as I hiked, so the rustle of the leaves above sounded like waves of water.
From a spot that overlooked the water, I could see where I had kayaked the day before.
Continuing the hike, I encountered another long section of the rock wall ruins as well as remnants of the fortress’s southern gate.
This spot was said to be the ruins of buildings that were once rest spots and watch stations for the defense soldiers.
The end of the hike was steep, with a long flight of log stairs to climb.
From here, I could just make out the silhouette of the Korean peninsula in the distance.
At this spot, there were remnants of an observatory and underground rooms.
After a bit more hiking, I reached the summit where there was a spectacular view! The water glistened bright blue and the bay was speckled with many little islands.
Mt. Shiratake, Tsushima’s sacred mountain, was also visible in the distance.
The way down was much easier as I took the less steep and wider military road, which had been built by the Japanese army during the Meiji period.
During the descent, I saw an artillery battery facility, a stone munitions storehouse, and the remains of a gun emplacement.
Back in town, I made a brief stop by the tourist information center where there was a neat 3D diorama of the fortress ruins. Seeing the topography of the hike I had just done was a great way to better understand and appreciate the fortress’s structure.
This hike is relatively easy if you follow the military path the entire way. Difficulty increases if you venture off this path as there are more rocky and steep sections.
What I liked about the hike was the diversity of scenery and the spots along the way that made the journey one of discovery and learning. It was also nice that many of the information placards were written in multiple languages, including English.
Tsushima Buddhist Temple Stay at Seizanji
Aside from the outdoor activities, another highlight of my trip was the overnight stay at a Buddhist temple!
I wasn’t expecting to find a temple stay experience in Tsushima, but I did! Seizanji is located on a small hill that overlooks the waters of Izuhara Port Ferry Terminal.
The temple has multiple floors of guest rooms, both Western and Japanese style. My room was located on the 3rd floor and came with tatami floors and futon bedding.
Included with my stay was a morning zazen meditation experience. Although I had to wake up earlier than usual, it was a neat way to start the day with a moment of quiet focus. I will admit that it was cold sitting so still in the winter morning!
For breakfast was a simple and healthy meal.
I recommend Seizanji if you are looking for a unique experience to add to your Tsushima trip and are interested in staying in a beautiful Buddhist Temple. The stay reminded me of my time at Koya-san, just at a smaller scale with far fewer people. If you prefer a more standard hotel, then nearby Toyoko Inn Tsushima Izuhara is a good option.
Komodo Hama Shrine
Another place I visited was Komodo Hama Shrine on the western shore of the island.
This area was attacked by a Mongolian army in 1274. Led by a man named Sukekuni Sou, the Tsushima troops were unfortunately outnumbered and annihilated. This shrine is dedicated to Sou and his men.
Stone Roof Houses
A few minutes’ drive from Komodo Hama Shrine is an area that has several houses built with stacked stone roofs.
Kawachi Sake Brewery
Less than a 5-minute drive from Tsushima airport is Kawachi Sake Brewery, the island’s only sake brewery. This brewery was founded in 1919 and is a spot beloved by islanders.
Next to Kawachi Sake Brewery is a local bakery (山田松月堂) that sells delicious sweets!
Seafood Delicacies
During my trip, I had so much good seafood, it’s another highlight I must share! Tsushima specialities include anago saltwater eel and rokube noodles made from potato. The fish was all so tasty and I got to try species not usually served in other restaurants.
Sakanaya-en
Sakanaya-en had a lot of seafood dishes on the menu. I chose the “aigo fry” or deep-fried mottled spinefoot fish.
The fish’s name doesn’t sound appetizing, but it was tasty!
This restaurant is also known for saba sashimi and a kombu-wrapped steamed fish.
Senryo
For dinner, I had another wonderful seafood meal at a restaurant called Senryo. My meal included:
– Seared nodoguro (Black Sea perch) sashimi
– Cured mackerel sashimi
– Fried bones of the nodoguro
– Grilled hiramasa kama (yellowtail amberjack collar)
– Fried anago (saltwater eel)
– Anago sashimi
– and Rokube soup, a local dish with noodles made from sweet potatoes)
Final Thoughts
And that about wraps up my trip to Tsushima! It was a quick overnight trip, super packed with outdoor adventure, eating, and learning. My first trip to Tsushima was a memorable one!
Are you looking to travel to Tsushima yourself? If so, let me know in the comments below what is on your itinerary!
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Looking for other off-the-beaten-path places to travel in Kyushu? Here are some ideas:
- What to Do in Itoshima, Fukuoka – Activity and Food Guide – Discover Itoshima, Fukuoka’s coastal city known for cafes, beaches, and nature.
- Hiking Mt. Aso in Kumamoto – Mt. Nakadake Trail – gear up for a hike around Mt. Aso, one of Japan’s active volcanoes!
- Craft Inn 手 [té]: An Immersive Art Experience in Yame, Fukuoka – relax and immerse yourself in the traditional crafts of Kyushu in the quaint area of Yame.
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