When I first researched Fukuoka before moving, the top things that came up about the region were its food (Hakata ramen, mentaiko, mizutaki), nature, and beautiful women. I’m not kidding! Apparently, Fukuoka is known for its “bijin” which means “beautiful woman”.
Getting back on track, what was not nearly as well known, and in my opinion is severely underrecognized, is the abundance of traditional crafts in the Kyushu region.
One such craft is Kurume Kasuri – an ikat dyeing and weaving technique that once thrived in the Kurume region of Fukuoka. While the number of workshops has severely dwindled, those that remain continue the legacy of this textile.
Today’s post is about the traditional weaving technique, Kurume Kasuri, a workshop in Hirokawa that upholds the laborious process of making patterned cloth, and the hands-on indigo dyeing experience I got to experience at the workshop. Read on to learn about the world of indigo dyeing!
This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read the full disclosure for more information. Additionally, I received a discount for this tour as I am affiliated with the tour company. All thoughts and opinions are my own.
See this video about a weekend of Indigo I had with my mom!
Table of Contents
- What is Kurume Kasuri
- Aizome Kasuri Kobo – Textile Maker in Yame, Fukuoka
- Getting to Aizome Kasuri Kobo
- Workshop Tour
- Indigo Dyeing Experience
- Continuing the Indigo Immersion- Overnight at Craft Inn Te
- Final Thoughts
What is Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri is a traditional weaving technique that dates back over 200 years. Inoue Den is heralded as the Founder of Kurume Kasuri, who at just 12 years old, discovered a technique of tying up threads, dyeing them in indigo, the weaving them to form patterns.
In 1957, Kurume Kasuri was designated an important intangible cultural property by the government of Japan. The characteristics that are needed to receive this distinction are written on the official Kurume Kasuri website as follows:
● Must use hand-wrapped dyed thread.
● Must be dyed with natural indigo.
● Must be woven on a traditional handloom.
Fabrics created using these techniques that pass an inspection are labeled and sold as important intangible cultural properties. These fabrics are very valuable because the quantity of Kurume Kasuri that meets these strict requirements is extremely limited.
These days, you can find Kurume Kasuri used in a range of everyday goods such as clothing, accessories, and interior decorations. Kurume Kasuri textiles can feature simple or more complex designs and are generally made of 100% cotton.
The process of making Kurume Kasuri, from creating the first design sketches, to finishing a woven piece of material requires over 30 different processes and spans over months of work. Due to its highly labor-intensive nature, hand-dyed, hand-woven products are increasingly difficult to find.
One of the few remaining workshops that continues to proudly uphold the traditional work of making Kurume Kasuri by hand is Aizome Kasuri Kobo.
Aizome Kasuri Kobo – Textile Maker in Yame, Fukuoka
Tucked away near the mountains of Yame, far from public transportation is Aizome Kasuri Kobo (藍染絣工房). This is a family-run business that produces Kurume Kasuri and is run by 4th and 5th generation father and son.
The workshop was established in 1891 and is known for the strikingly beautiful patterns and indigo color gradations they produce. To create the deepest blues, pieces need to be dyed more than 50 times in the vats of indigo.
It was here, at Aizome Kasuri Kobo, that my mother and I got to step into the world of indigo, see the workshop up close, and experience making our own indigo-dipped art pieces.
Getting to Aizome Kasuri Kobo
As mentioned above, Aizome Kasuri Kobo is located in a semi-remote area far from public transportation. If you aren’t driving yourself, the next best way is to hire a local taxi.
Workshop Tour
Upon arriving at Aizome Kasuri Kobo, we were warmly greeted by the family and welcomed into their home. Right away we were able to start learning about the craft, with the 5th generation head, Ken as our main guide. Inside a room adorned with many Kurume Kasuri items (just sitting in it made me want to buy some for my own home), he explained to us the basic steps of making Kurume Kasuri.
Once we had a grasp of the overall process, we headed into the workshop. Walking into the dirt-floored building, I saw a piece of hanging cotton and was reminded that it is the basis of all the Kurume Kasuri threads they use.
Stepping into the dyeing space, the area where Ken spends most of his time, we were met with two rows of indigo vats. I wondered why so many different vats were needed, but soon learned that each vat was at a different stage of fermentation.
In order to achieve the best colors and to preserve the health of the indigo (which is a living organism), the craftsmen dye the threads in multiple vats and in a specific order.
In other parts of the workshop, we saw a traditional weaving machine with many strings meticulously stretched across, bags of natural indigo, and dyed threads hanging out to dry.
Indigo Dyeing Experience
After the tour, it was time to get our hands dirty (just kidding we had gloves and plastic scrub-like aprons to protect our clothes) and make our own art piece.
We chose our cloth size and then watch Ken’s technique for dipping it into the indigo vats. Squatting over the foamy liquid, I just hoped I (or my phone) wouldn’t fall in.
Ken showed us the order to dip in and then taught us to wring out the cloth each time. (Removing the liquid and exposing the cloth to the air allows the indigo to oxidize and create the rich blue color.)
Our first few dips resulted in a kind of brown/yellow color that made it hard to believe would turn indigo blue. But after dipping over and over again, the color started to change.
Since we wanted to create a gradient effect, we dipped less and less of the fabric as we went.
After countless dips, our fabric was finally starting to show signs of beautiful blue. We headed to the rinsing station where the colors could truly be seen.
Even though my mother and I dipped our pieces side by side, they still turned out completely different.
Once the water ran clean, we headed back inside for a snack as the cloth dried.
While we waited, we “oohed” and “awed” at all the indigo products that surrounded us. A giant kimono, a quilt made of scraps, bright pillows with bold patterns…
Once the cloth was dry, the final step was to attach it to art panels. We folded and stapled the dyed fabric into place and voila! A beautiful souvenir of Japan that doubles as great home decor!
Leaving the workshop, we were all smiles. It’s not often you get to step into the life of a craftsman and see so keenly the skill, dedication, and passion that goes into the work they do. There are lots of fabrics out there these days, and the trend of fast fashion is hotter than ever. Having this type of experience is helping change the way I value clothes and other textiles.
Want to experience this tour yourself? Check out UNA Laboratories for reservations and more info.
Although Kurume Kasuri Kobo typically dyes and weaves textiles, our experience focused on the dyeing part of the process and we used cloth instead of bundled threads. For an experience more similar to traditional Kurume Kasuri making, see the video below!
Continuing the Indigo Immersion- Overnight at Craft Inn te
While my mom and I had a wonderful time at Aizome Kasuri Kobo, our weekend of indigo didn’t end there! During our stay, we were able to book a room at Craft In te, a traditional inn that highlights the artistry of local craftsmen.
Of the different rooms available, we stayed in… the Indigo Room! Both floors of our rooms were decorated with beautiful indigo-dyed art pieces, a few of which were produced by Aizome Kasuri Kobo, the workshop we had just visited.
Learn more about Craft Inn te in this blog post, or book a room now!
The stay at Craft Inn te paired with the immersive tour and indigo dyeing completed the weekend for us.
Yame is quite the opposite of the bustling Japanese cities people may envision, but for some, it can be the perfect place to experience a rich part of Japan’s crafts and history.
Final Thoughts
Kyushu’s craft scene is quite unknown compared to the popular onsen towns and bountiful gourmet selections that fill the web and most people’s itineraries.
While I do enjoy city life, stepping into Yame, seeing the quieter side of Japan, and being able to interact with craftsmen holding generations of history and skill is something I will treasure. I’m looking forward to continuing to learn more about Kyushu’s traditional craft scene!
Want to learn about more things to do in Fukuoka? Check out this post: What to Do in Fukuoka – 20 Local Recs to Add To Your Itinerary
Looking for more things to do in Kyushu? Check out these posts below!
Hop on a bike and explore Yame’s famous tea fields! (A bike with gears is recommended).
- Craft Inn 手 [té]: An Immersive Art Experience in Yame, Fukuoka – Step into a world of crafts with a stay at this beautiful traditional inn!
- 10+ Best Weekend Trips From Fukuoka, Kyushu – Different places to visit around Kyushu and beyond!
- Kurokawa Onsen Village: Onsen Hopping and Overnight Stay – Take a dip in the many onsens of Kurokawa.
- Biking and Cafes on the Coast of Itoshima – The perfect way to spend a beautiful day by the sea!
- Miyajima Island in 24 hours – Here are my recommendations if you have a day to spend on Hiroshima’s Miyajima Island.
- Biking Around Sakurajima: A Complete Guide – Take a bike ride around Sakurajima, Kagoshima’s active volcano.