Three-storied pagoda with Nachi Falls.

Hiking the Kumano Kodo (Nakahechi Route, 5 Days): Complete Itinerary and Guide

Hiking on the Kumano Kodo is akin to stepping back in time, to a place where the call of nature speaks loudest. Stroll beneath towering trees that sway overhead, taking in the morning sunlight glinting through the leaves. 

The sound of chirping fills the forest, and as you round the bend, a small shrine comes into view. 

Collect bright red stamps along the way, filling your book with colorful memories of the journey.

After long days of walking, hot baths and fresh food offered by the lodges along the route refresh the bodies of travelers. Here on the Kumano Kodo, embrace a journey fused with nature and spirit. 

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read the full disclosure for more information.

The provided information was written as accurately as possible and is based on a trip completed in Spring 2025. Be sure to check for the most recent travel information before your trip. 

Table of Contents

Kumano Kodo Trail History

The Kumano Kodo is an ancient pilgrimage route located in the mountains of Wakayama prefecture along the Kii Peninsula. It is said that the rocky trails have been traversed for over 1,000 years by all members of society, from imperial family members to commoners.

Bordering the Pacific Ocean, this region is characterized by steep mountains, lush valleys with towering trees, and a branching network of pilgrimage routes, sacred sites, and quaint towns. 

5 Days on the Kumano Kodo

While several routes make up the Kumano Kodo region, I chose to embark on the Nakahechi Route. This is a popular route for first-timers given its moderate difficulty, relative ease of access, and abundance of documented information. Learn about the other Kumano Kodo trail routes here.  

Traditionally, the Kumano Kodo was only traveled on by foot, but today, a small network of buses allows visitors to access the area without needing to walk the entire length. 

For my journey, I combined walking and riding the bus to explore various areas over five days. 

During the trip, I enjoyed visiting the Three Grand Shrines and the Nachisan Seiganto-ji Temple, all of which are designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Another highlight of the journey was collecting stamps for the Dual Pilgrimage Program and the Nakahechi Stamp book. (Learn about these below.)

Skip the intro and jump to the start: Day One on the Kumano Kodo.

Kumano Kodo Vlog

Want to come on the Kumano Kodo with me? Join the journey in this vlog – Hiking on the Kumano Kodo – Nakahechi Route 5 Days | Wakayama UNESCO Pilgrimage Trail, and don’t forget to subscribe on YouTube!

Kumano Kodo Resources – Trail Maps and Info

Here are some of the most helpful materials I came across when planning for the trip.

Trail maps

Transportation Time Tables

Booking accommodations

  • Booking.com – for simple booking that can be done yourself.
  • KUMANO TRAVEL – for access to more accommodation options, you’ll need to go through this website, which requires making an account, submitting a request, and paying online.

Luggage transfer 

  • KUMANO TRAVEL – you need to book your stays with KUMANO TRAVEL to use their luggage transfer service.

Best Time to Hike the Kumano Kodo

The most popular time to hike the Kumano Kodo is in the spring and fall, outside of Japan’s hot summer and chilly winter seasons. I saw a few cherry blossoms in early spring as well as a bit of snow on the trail. The fall colors are also said to be stunning.

Most accommodations will be closed at the end of the year and during the first days of the New Year.

Kuamano Kodo Itinerary Overview

The Kumano Kodo routes are tucked deep in the mountains of Wakayama, far from the main cities. 

My journey started at Osaka Station, where I took a train and bus to reach the Western start of the Nakahechi trail at Takijiri.

There is no right or wrong start point, so feel free to start anywhere along the trail or walk it in reverse from east to west.

Here is an overview of my travel itinerary along the Nakahechi Trail. On days 3 and 4, I took a bus to save on walking time and visit other parts of the area. 

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Preparation Before You Hike

Before setting out on the trail, here are some things you will want to have squared away. 

Lodging

Accommodations along the Kumano Kodo are limited and can be booked out during peak times. Places do not allow drop-in stays, so you MUST make reservations in advance. 

Once you have decided on your dates, secure your lodging so you aren’t left in a pinch. I recommend booking at least a month in advance, and even further ahead if you can.

I booked some of my nights using booking.com and others using the KUMANO TRAVEL reservation system. Using booking.com is quick and easy, but there are fewer listings available on the platform. 

If you don’t find places that fit your needs, you can use the official Kumano Kodo reservation system. You have to make an account first, then submit a request during the designated hours. After a few days, you should receive a reply. If your request is granted, you will be able to secure the reservation and pay for the booking online. 

Luggage Transfer Service

If you plan to hike most of the trail, you’ll want to travel as light as possible. Use the luggage transfer service organized by KUMANO TRAVEL or organize it separately yourself. To use the KUMANO TRAVEL luggage service, you need to book your accommodations through the same website.

Train Reservations

If you plan to travel using the JR Limited Express Kuroshio train, book your seats in advance. You can buy tickets online here. 

The route from Osaka is covered by the JR Rail Pass if you have it – just be sure to still reserve your seats in advance. Learn more about getting a Regional JR Pass. 

You can technically still buy tickets using the Green Ticket booth at the station on the day of, but seats may be sold out. Since the train only comes every few hours, it’s best to book ahead. 

Food

Along the trail and in the towns, there are few restaurants, convenience stores, and vending machines. It’s a good idea to bring snacks as well as plenty of liquids. 

Most accommodations offer meal plans that include dinner, breakfast, and a packed lunch.  I recommend booking this plan unless you can figure out food yourself, or if you have dietary restrictions that can’t be accommodated.

Day 1: Osaka Station to Takahara

Osaka Station/Shin-Osaka Station → Kii-Tanabe

Ride the JR Limited Express Kuroshio train to Kii-Tanabe. Make sure to reserve your seats in advance since spots can sell out. 

As you ride out of the busy city, enjoy the view of the water that passes by on the right side of the train. 

Kii-Tanabe is a small city along the coast. At the Tanabe Visitor Center, pick up trail maps, the Dual Pilgrim stamp book, and buy your bus tickets from the ticket machine. 

Find the bus schedule to Takijiri here. The staff at the visitor center speaks English, so they can help you if you have any questions. 

There are a few restaurants and shops by the train station if you need to grab a bite to eat.

Neighborhood was a nice restaurant right outside the station that served healthy and colorful lunch sets.

Kii-Tanabe → Takijiri

Take the bus that stops outside the visitor center (at #2) to Takijiri. The bus can fill up, so line up early if you want to secure a seat. The ride is about 40 minutes long. 

After getting off the bus, you’ll see the Tonda River and the octagonal Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center across the way. 

Visit the Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center to pick up the Nakahechi Stamp book. (This is different from the Dual Pilgrim Stamp book.) 

A restroom and vending machines are nearby. 

Takijiri → Takahara

The trail starts at Takijiri Shrine, which is across the street from the Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center. Get your first trail stamp at Takijiri-oji, then start the uphill climb to Takahara. 

*Stamping etiquette – after using the stamp and stamp pad, return both to the provided box and place them inside the little stamp station to prevent them from drying out and getting damaged. 

Although Takahara is only about 4km away, the route is quite steep and the path is full of roots and rocks. Take it slow and enjoy being on the Kumano Kodo trail! 

Depending on your speed, it takes about 2-3 hours to reach Takahara. 

I hiked in the middle of the day, so the sun above cast dark, contrasty shadows on the ground.

Near the entrance of Takahara, there was a small wood craft store and a free shoe repair station. 

Takahara Kumano Shrine

In the middle of Takahara was the Takahara Kumano Shrine. Make your offerings, get another stamp, then head to the nearby lookout point. 

Overnight in Takahara: Kirinosato Takahara

I enjoyed a lovely stay at the guest lodge, Kirinosato Takahara. Reservations can be made via Booking.com, or you can request a stay through the KUMANO TRAVEL Website. 

The lodge was spacious and had an open dining area, outdoor terrace with a view of the mountains, 8 guest rooms, and gender-separated onsen baths. 

There were Japanese-style tatami rooms as well as rooms with Western-style beds. Plans can include dinner, breakfast, and lunch boxes to go.

Before dinner, I had a lovely soak in the onsen bath, then got to see the sunset slip behind the mountains. 

Dinner was wonderful and started with slices of fresh sashimi, small side dishes, a tapas plate of traditional local ingredients, and a steaming dish of sukiyaki beef. For dessert, there was a stuffed baked apple and vanilla ice cream. 

The home-cooked meal and relaxing onsen bath were the perfect way to end the first night on the trail. 

Kirinosato Takahara was a great place to stay in Takahara, I highly recommend!

Day 2: Takahara to Chikatsuyu

Breakfast at Kirinosato Takahara

For breakfast, there were hot eggs, fresh bread, fruits, and yogurt. Before leaving, I received a small bento lunch to eat while on the road. 

Takahara → Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Michi-no-Eki Rest Stop

Start the day early on the trail that continues with a gradual uphill grade.

I found it nice to walk in the morning compared to in the afternoon, like the day before. 

As you walk, enjoy seeing the light shine through the trees and hearing the sway of the towering trunks above.

The trail continues uphill towards the Jujo-oji clearing. 

After the Jujo-oji at marker #14, continue climbing towards the highest part of the Nakahechi route – the remains of the Uwada-jaya Teahouse near signpost #18.

This is where I stopped to eat my lunch, but only for a short while, since it got chilly the moment I stopped moving.

After the tea house ruins, the trail continues downhill towards the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Michi-no-Eki Rest Stop.

This is a nice place to take a break as there are vending machines, bathrooms, snacks, and benches. 

I tried a citrus drink with a neat label that featured a three-legged crow- the auspicious symbol of the Kumano Kodo. 

Micihi-no-Eki Rest Stop → Chikatsuyu

Back on the trail, you’ll encounter a small stream and pass by more oji shrines. Don’t forget to fill up your stamp books!

At one spot, there is a small statue of the first emperor who traveled along the Kumano Kodo.

Chikatsuyu is a small town with only a few cafes around. Visit the Chikatsuyu-Oji Remains, cool off with a drink at CABELO Coffee, then settle down at your accommodations for the evening. 

If you have more energy, you can plan to continue your trip further to the next town. 

Overnight in Chikatsuyu: Minshuku Chikatsuyu

For day two, I stayed overnight at Minshuku Chikatsuyu, a guest house with two buildings. Like the evening before, the stay came with dinner, breakfast, and a bento lunch box. 

I made reservations for this stay using the KUMANO TRAVEL reservation service. 

Another option in Chikatsuyu is KUMANOYASAI Cottage. My friend stayed here and enjoyed their time! See on booking.com. 

I relished another well-earned soak in the town’s only onsen (accessible only to guests of Minshuku Chikatsuyu), then made my way to the dining area for the evening’s meal. 

This dinner also did not disappoint. It included seared sashimi, simmered eggplant, crispy fried fish, vegetables, another bubbling sukiyaki hotpot, and fried tempura.

It was exactly what my tired body needed to end the day.

Day 3: Chikatsuyu to Kawayu Onsen

After fueling up with an early breakfast at 6:30 am, I headed out into the misty morning toward the Chikatsuyu-oji bus stop. 

Chikatsuyu → Doyukawa-bashi 

In order to save a few hours of walking, I opted to take the bus for a short section of the route. 

If you choose to do the same, note that there is only one bus in the morning, and it gets packed, especially if you board at later stops. 

Ride the bus for 10 minutes and get off at Doyukawa-bashi around 7:33 am. 

Doyukawa-bashi → Kumano Hongu Taisha

Once off the bus, the rest of the journey to Kumano Hongu Taisha is on foot. 

There are two large inclines at the beginning of the hike, but after that, it is either level or a descent.  

Take a break at Hosshinmongu Shrine – the outer entrance to Kumano Hongu Taisha’s sacred precincts.

At the Toganoki-jaya Tea House, stop for a coffee or a bright pink shiso drink. 

Before entering the main part of Kumano Hongu Taisha, there is a small detour that leads to a lookout point. Take this route to get a view of the large Oyunohara Torii gate in the distance. 

Kumano Hongu Taisha

Kumano Hongu Taisha is one of the three grand shrines along the Kumano Kodo. 

There is a beautiful view near the main entrance with the rows of flags leading up the stairs. 

Find many three-legged crows around the shrine and pick up an amulet or goshuin stamp.

Don’t forget to get the Kumano Kodo completion stamp for the Dual Pilgrimage Book located near the amulet area. 

Oyunohara

About a 5-minute walk from Kumano Hongu Taisha is Oyunohara. 

The large Torii gate that stands in front is the largest in the world, stretching 33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide. 

Kumano Hongu Taisha → Kawayu Onsen

After seeing Oyunohara, walk back toward Kumano Hongu Taisha to catch a bus to Kawayu Onsen (or Yumnomine Onsen or Wataze Onsen)

The bus ride is about 10 minutes. Check the bus schedule to make sure you don’t miss the last bus. 

Kawayu Onsen 

Kawayu Onsen is a special area that is known for having hot spring water that seeps into the river’s cool water. 

By digging into the riverbank, visitors can create little foot baths to soak in.  

Hop across the chilly river water to find spots where the natural hot spring waters flow into the river. Using a shovel, dig a little hole and rest your feet in the piping hot waters.

Overnight in Kawayu Onsen: Ashita no Mori

I booked my stay in Kawayu Onsen at Pension Ashita no Mori. 

The guesthouse was located right across the river, which made access very easy. They also provided slippers and shovels to enjoy the river. 

Two private onsen baths could be freely used and were filled with super-hot water. 

The provided dinner was Western-style and included hamburger patties, corn soup, and salad. It wasn’t my favorite meal of the trip.

The rooms were cabin-themed with small, separate beds and shared bathrooms. While the food didn’t excite me like at the other stays, the private onsen baths, easy river access, and open space were great.  

Day 4: Kawayu Onsen to Kii-Katsuura

Kawayu Onsen → Kumano Hayatama Taisha 

I stepped off the trail to ride the bus further down the route to see the other Grand Shrines. 

Take a bus from Kawayu Onsen to Hayatama Taisha Mae. The ride takes about 1 hour, and the bus can get full and run behind schedule. (Bus timetable)

After getting off the bus, take a short walk to Kumano Hayatama Taisha, the second Grand Shrine of the trip.  

This shrine is painted bright orange and green and is pleasantly much less crowded than Kumano Hongu Taisha. 

The amulet center sells little fortunes and trinkets. I bought a small three-legged crow amulet as a token to remember the trip!

Don’t forget to add this Grand Shrine stamp to your books. 

Kumano Hayatama Taisha → Nachi Station 

After walking around Kumano Hayatama Shrine, take the bus or train to Nachi Station. 

Nachi Station → Daimonzaka

From Nachi Station, take the bus to Daimonzaka.  It takes about 12 minutes and costs 540 yen. (Bus timetable)

Daimonzaka → Kumano Nachi Taisha

From the Daimonzaka bus stop, follow the tree-lined, cobblestone path towards Kumano Nachi Taisha. The steps led up and up the mountain, finally opening up into an area with shops and stairs. 

After the final flight of stairs, you will arrive at the third and final of the Grand Shrines, Kumano Nachi Taisha!

There is an ancient camphor tree near the center of the shrine with a hollow trunk that could be climbed through. 

Nachisan Seiganto-ji

Next to Kumano Nachi Taisha is Nachisan Seiganto-ji, which is heralded as the oldest building in Kumano.

Three-Storied Pagoda 

One of the most exciting views of the trip was that of the three-story pagoda and Nachi waterfall in the background.

The pagoda was recently repainted, so enjoy the picture-perfect view of the bright vermilion against the mountain. 

For 500 yen, enter the pagoda and see the falls from a different perspective. 

Nachi-no-Otaki Waterfall 

After leaving the pagoda and the view, head down the mountain to get closer to Nachi-no-Otaki Waterfall. 

Nachi-no-Otaki is known as Japan’s largest single-drop waterfall. 

There is another stamp station here, as well as a special viewing platform that could be accessed for 300 yen. 

You can have lunch or a snack near the falls, as there are a few restaurants and souvenir shops. 

Nachi no Taki Mae → Kii-Katsuura

From the Nachi no Taki Mae bus stop, ride 25 minutes to Kii-Katsuura. The bus gets full, so line up early if you want a seat. 

Overnight in Kii-Katsuura: 自由自屋

For the final night of the journey, I chose to stay near Kii-Katsuura for easy access to the train and morning fish market. 

I stayed at a guesthouse called Jiyu Jiya (自由自屋), which came with a small private room with futon beds and a shared lounge space on the second and first floors. 

When in Kii-Katsuura, make sure to try the local specialty, tuna! 

At bodai, a creative izakaya restaurant, I had fried tuna katsu, which was like a bite of sashimi with a crispy crust, as well as a plate of thickly cut tuna.

Many restaurants in the area get busy by 5:30 pm, so reservations are recommended.

Day 5: Kii-Katsuura and Onwards

Katsuura Port Fish Market

Start the day off early to see the Katsuura Port Fish Market.

This market is located near the water and becomes a bustling space filled with rows and rows of freshly caught fish.  

Keeping out of the way of the workers, you can observe the careful process of buyers examining and bidding on fish. 

In this building, there is a small museum and a great observation space to watch from above. 

Next to the fish auction is a foot bath and a small market. 

The market opens at 8 am. Stop by here after seeing the fish auction, and enjoy a tuna rice bowl by the waterside. 

Travel Onwards

From Kii-Katsuura, take the Kuroshio Train back to Osaka and onto your next travels! 

Final Thoughts

What an amazing trip! Like many adventures, this one was packed with great outdoor spots, new tastes, and exciting accommodations. 

The long days were taxing, though, and by the end of each evening, I was completely exhausted and ready to sleep by 8 pm.

Having to rely on infrequent and often packed public transportation was a bit stressful, but thankfully, there were no mishaps!  

For those looking for a chance to get out of the big cities and into the calm nature of Japan’s mountains, I recommend a journey along the Kumano Kodo!

Dual Pilgrimage Program and Nakahechi Stamp Book

The are two programs that can be enjoyed while on the Kuamno Kodo.

Dual Pilgrimage Program

The Dual Pilgrimage Program is a partner program with the only other UNESCO World Heritage Pilgrimage Route, the Camino de Santiago in Spain. Special certification is given to those who complete both routes. There are several ways to complete the Kumano Kodo portion, including: 

  1. Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~38 km) or
  2. Kumano Nachi Taisha to/from Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~30 km) or
  3. Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~7 km) plus a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha

During my trip, I fulfilled the Kumano Kodo Portion via option 3. Now I look forward to trying the Camino de Santiago someday in the future!

Learn more about completing the Dual Pilgrimage Program here. 

Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Stamp Book 

There is a separate Kumano Kodo Nakahechi stamp book that can be picked up from the Pilgrimage Center in Takijiri for 100 yen. If you complete the book, you get a certificate from Wakayama Prefecture. 

I wasn’t able to finish this stamp book on my journey since I took the bus for a portion of the route and didn’t walk the entire route. I hope to travel back again next time to add to the book!

Here is a breakdown of the two different programs, as well as a map of the different stamp locations. 

Want to learn more about other great trips in Japan off the beaten path? Check out these!

4 thoughts on “Hiking the Kumano Kodo (Nakahechi Route, 5 Days): Complete Itinerary and Guide”

  1. leisa

    Thank you, l appreciated your info and insight to this trail. My sister and I are doing this January 2026 and this has made me more excited to experience this wonderful part of the world.

    Reply
  2. Kate G

    You hiked in the spring but what were the dates? I’m trying to decide what time of year to go. I know spring is busy but less rainy….

    Reply

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *