Solo Biking the Shimanami Kaido: A Complete Guide

Have you ever imagined biking through Japan, the water at your side, zooming across expansive bridges, hopping from one ice cream shop to the next? If so, the Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道) might be for you! 

What is the Shimanami Kaido?

The Shimanami Kaido is a highway for cars that connects Onomichi (Hiroshima) with Imabari (Shikoku) through a series of islands. Since the bridges are open to bikes and there are many cycling routes throughout the islands, the Shimanami Kaido is one of Japan’s most popular cycling routes. 

With a serene view of the Seto Inland Sea throughout the ride, and easy-to-access rental terminals, bike service stations, cafes, and accomodations- it’s no wonder why the Shimanami Kaido is a popular destination for cyclists. 

The standard Shimanami Kaido biking course consists of taking a ferry, crossing 6 bridges, and traversing through 6 different islands (Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima) for a total distance of 70-80 km (44-50 miles).

The ride can be done in a single day or spread over multiple days for a more leisurely time. My route ended up being 87km which contained a few detours.

Continue reading to learn what it was like to bike the Shimanami Kaido in Japan!

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Table of Contents

• Shimanami Kaido Vlog
• Shimanami Kaido Resources – Route Maps and Info
• Best Time to Ride the Shimanami Kaido
• Preparation Before You Ride
  • Rent Your Bike
  • Book Your Stay
  • What to Bring
• How to Get to the Start of the Shimanami Kaido
• Shimanami Kaido Itinerary
  • Onomichi
  • Mukaishima
  • Innoshima Bridge
  • Innoshima
  • Ikuchijima Bridge
  • Ikuchijima
  • Tatara Bridge
  • Omishima
  • Omishima Bridge
  • Hakatajima
  • Hakata Oshima Bridge
  • Oshima
  • Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge
  • Imabari
• Where to Stay on the Shimanami Kaido
• Final Thoughts

Shimanami Kaido Vlog

Watch the entire trip in these videos! Days one and two are split up for easy watching.

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Shimanami Kaido Resources – Route Maps and Info

During the ride, I used a custom Google Map to keep track of my location and stopping points.

You can access this map and so much more in my digital guide!

The 36 pages are packed with photos taken along the route and contain access to a custom Google Map with clickable location pins. Save the map to your Google account, edit it as you wish, and use it to cycle easily! (*Map access requires an internet connection) The guide also includes over 25 sightseeing spots, restaurants, and shops to visit along the ride. Hotel recommendations, a packing list, and insight on when to visit are also included!

I wish I had this kind of guide when planning my journey, so I hope it’s helpful for you!

A few words from customers who have purchased the digital guide:

My husband loved the ebook – he was able to use your pinned map and get us going! –

I’ve used your guide during my ride and it was very,very helpful.

Thanks for your website and your riding route outline. And the map will def come in handy!

Best Time to Ride the Shimanami Kaido

While the Shimanami Kaido can be accessed at any time of the year, it is best to ride during the spring or fall when the temperature is the most moderate. 

If you plan to ride during Golden Week, from the end of April to the beginning of May, reserve your bikes and hotels well in advance as this is a very busy time of year. 

Preparation Before You Ride

Rent Your Bike

Shimanami Japan Bike Rental

Unless you plan to bring your own bike, you will need to rent a bike for the trip. The company that I rented from was Shimanami Japan. 

This company has an expansive rental network allowing riders to rent and drop off bikes at any of the many stations along the Shimanami Kaido. This system is extremely convenient, especially for one-way journeys, or trips that include exploration to other islands via ferry.

Reservations can be made here. While reservations are highly recommended, several bikes are available on the day of, for rental on a first come first serve basis. 

The Onomichi bike rental shop is here and the Imbarai Station shop is here. 

Learn more about renting a bike in my new Shimanami Kaido Digital Guide!

Book Your Stay

If you are planning a multi-day trip, book your accommodation in advance as places can fill quickly, and finding somewhere to stay after a long day of biking is not ideal. 

For a great halfway stop, I recommend Omishima. This island is the halfway point of the route and offers several overnight options from fancy glamping to more budget-friendly hostels. Read more about where I stayed in the Accommodation section below. 

If you need a simple yet nice place to stay in Onomichi before or after the journey, I recommend a night at urashima INN GANGI.

What to Bring

Other than personal essentials, here are a few other items you may want to add to your bag. If you want the full packing list and information about luggage forwarding options, check out the complete digital guide!

• Bike pants – These saved my butt – literally! If you don’t have a pair of padded bike pants, order a pair before your trip. Your behind will thank you. I ordered this pair which worked nicely – after the ride, my butt didn’t hurt at all.  
• Sunscreen – Even on cool days, the sun can be harsh. Make sure to get a sunscreen that is sweat-resistant. 
• Bike bag – To keep weight off my shoulders, I used a bike bag attached to the frame of the bike. This can be helpful if you have a few things to carry but don’t want to use a luggage service. Make sure that the bag you purchase fits the bike you plan to rent.

How to Get to the Start of the Shimanami Kaido

The Shimanai Kaido course starts from either Imabari Station or near Onomichi Station.

To Reach Onomichi Station

• Ride the Shinkansen to Fukuyama Station.
• Transfer to the local Sanyo line headed for Mihara. Ride for 4 stops, about 20 minutes, to Onomochi Station. 
• In Fukuyama, you will leave the Shinkansen ticket gate and then board the local train without exiting the gates completely.  

To Reach Imabari Station

• Ride the Shinkansen to Fukuyama Station.
• Transfer to the local Sanyo line headed for Mihara. Ride for 4 stops, about 20 minutes, to Onomochi Station. 
• Take the Shimanami Liner (bus) to Imabari Station. Reservations are not required and payment can be made on the bus. You can buy tickets at the bus window. The ride is an hour and a half and costs 2,800 yen. Payment in cash only. 

See the Shimanami Liner Bus timetable here. (In Japanese). The first and last stops are Fukuyama Station (福山駅前) and Imabari Station (今治駅前), so if your destination is either of these stops you can stay on the entire way. 

Shimanami Kaido Itinerary

Now that you’ve made it to the start of the Shimanami Kaido, the fun is about to begin! Below is the route I took from Onomichi to Imabari.

Day Zero:

• (Shinkansen) → Fukuyama →  (Train) → Onomichi 

Day One:

• Onomichi → (Ferry) → Mukaishima → (Bike) → Innoshima →  (Bike) → Ikuchijima → (Bike)  → Omishima

Day Two:

• Omishima → (Bike) → Hakatajima → (Bike)  → Oshima →  (Bike) →  Imabari → (Bus) → Fukuyama → (Shinkansen) → 

The diagram below shows the elevation gain throughout the route (in reverse). The course is relatively flat except when ascending and descending the bridges and at the Tanoura Pass (an alternative to the Miyakubo Pass). 

In addition to the route shown above, I had a detour to Mt. Kiro Observatory on Oshima. This extra stop was very steep – I pretty much walked my bike the entire way up the mountain. 

Onomichi

I arrived at Onomichi at night after taking the local train from Fukuyama Station. The evening was quiet with only a few yellow streetlights lining the road.

A handful of restaurants and izakayas were open, so I headed to one for dinner.

Dinner – Onomichi Ramen

I went to Gyuchan Onomichi to try the area’s famous Onomichi Ramen. The normal-sized bowl was 770 yen and ordering was done via a vending machine at the front of the store. 

Onomichi Ramen consists of a soy sauce broth made from chicken and dried small fish. Floating on the soup’s surface is pork fat. 

While I enjoyed the tasty flavor of the soup, I tried to avoid eating the pork fat and found the slice of meat a bit dry. 

Overnight Stay

The hotel I stayed at was urashima INN GANGI, located just a 7-minute walk from Onomichi station. The room was open and bright and faced right out onto the water. The rooftop could be accessed to take in the panoramic view of Onomichi.  

Booking can be done through Booking.com or Rakuten (Japanese only).

Breakfast – Koro bakery

I woke up early the next day and headed to Koro bakery which opened at 7 am. The staff was friendly and I picked two baked goods for breakfast – a wild boar mushroom flatbread and an edamame bacon crescent roll.

Since this store was takeout only, I took my food to eat outside by the water! 

Bike Rental – Shimanami Japan Rental Cycle

The Shimanami Japan Rental Cycle Onomichi shop is located just past Onomichi Station in a parking structure. 

Since I made reservations beforehand, I just shared my reservation number when I arrived, paid, and was ready to pick up the bike.

*Keep the receipt as you will show it when you return the bike later. 

After checking the brakes and gears and attaching my phone holder and bike bag I was ready to go!

Ferry to Mukaishima

While there is a bridge that connects Onomichi with Mukaishima, the road is very narrow and it is considered a dangerous route for bikers. Bikers are highly encouraged to take the ferry to Mukaishima instead.

The ferry to Mukaishima was just a short walk from the bicycle rental shop. The ride was quick, just 7 minutes, and cost 110 yen. (Payment on board, cash only).

Mukaishima

Stepping off the ferry meant I had made it to the first island. Welcome to Mukaishima! 

After arriving, I was excited to hop on my bike and finally be on my way. It was easy to find the famous “blue line” on the road and follow it around the island. The Shimanami Kaido course had begun!

Innoshima Bridge

Leading up to the first bridge (and actually all the bridges) was a 3% grade incline about a kilometer long. The road snaked in a circle heading up and up to the start of the bridge. 

The transition from flat ground to the incline was quite sudden, but I after I shifted my gears, I was able to pedal up slowly but surely. An assisted bike would have made it a breeze but I enjoyed the workout.

Innoshima Bridge is a suspension bridge with a central span of 770 meters. It is the third longest bridge of the six. 

There was a special passage for bikes and pedestrians below the car lanes. While it was nice to bike across, the surrounding bridge members made it difficult to see the water to the sides and below. 

Innoshima

Welcome to the second island, Innoshima! After getting off the Innoshima Bridge, I took a small detour to Hassakuya to try one of Innoshima’s famous treats – citrus daifuku!

Citrus Daifuku – Hassakuya

Hassakuya was located shortly after the descent from the bridge, up a small hill. The extra climb was worth it!

This small store sold Hassaku Daifuku, a delicious soft mochi treat filled with a slice of sweet and juicy orange. 

Biting into the daifuku and tasting the succulent filling was so refreshing! On top of having tasty snacks, the cafe also had a great view of the bridge, restrooms, and a water station. 

Bike by the Water

While the standard route along the Shimani Kaido is the most direct route, it doesn’t always offer the best views. After Hassakuya, I took a slightly longer route that hugged the water instead of cutting through the island. (See the map)

Ikuchijima Bridge

Compared to the first bridge, Ikuchijima Bridge was less steep and shorter with a central span of only 490 meters. I enjoyed the nice view before crossing. 

Bikes and pedestrians travel in a lane separate from cars and from this bridge, there are nice views of the water.

Ikuchijima

I’ve already made it to island three?! Wow!

I spent the most time of day one on Ikuchijima, stopping at a gelato shop, temple, lunch spot, and cafe shop.

Gelato by the Sea – Dolce

Most of the route on this island was next to the sea. About halfway there was a great place to stop for a cool treat.

Dolce is a gelateria that sells a variety of different gelatos with their specialties being citrus and salt flavors. 

I ordered using the vending machine and ate on the terrace that faced the sea. There were also tables inside. This shop also sells sweets like dorayaki, a kind of small pancake sandwich.  

The Haruka flavor I got was sweet, lemony, and again so refreshing! It wasn’t the most creamy gelato I’ve eaten, but it hit the spot. 

Inside the shop was a bathroom and water and outside there were vending machines.  

Kousanji Temple 

A little further around the island was Kousanji Temple. This opulent Buddhist temple was founded in 1936 and had an impressive number of grand and colorful buildings. 

The temple grounds were larger and more ornate than I had expected. I was only able to walk around very quickly, but if I had more time, it would have been nice to explore more slowly.

Inside the temple is the Cave of 1,000 Buddhas, an underground path filled with Buddha sculptures and depictions of the route from Hell to Heaven.

Above the temple complex is the Hill of Hope, which is filled with 3,000 tons of gleaming white Italian marble. 

This temple was very interesting, so if you have time, I recommend stopping by. The entrance fee was 1,400 yen.  

Octopus Lunch at Chidori Shokudo

I stopped for lunch at a spot right across from Kousanji Temple. The restaurant, Chidori Shokudo, specializes in tako or octopus dishes. The dipping soba noodles I ordered came with octopus tempura, octopus rice, and what I think were some octopus innards. 

The amount of food was generous and I eagerly dug in.

Biking Goods at Cafe VIA Shimanami

Close to Chidori Shokudo was cafe VIA Shimanami which sold refreshments and sweets as well as original Shimanami apparel including bike jerseys, shirts, hats, bike gloves, and more. 

The cafe had one design in particular that had been created by a Japanese illustrator and featured icons of the Shimanami Kaido. The design was patented and can only be bought in person at the shop! I liked the shirt so I picked one up as a souvenir for myself. 

Tatara Bridge

The third and final bridge of day one was the Tatara Bridge.

Midway on the bridge, there was a special spot called the Tatara Thunder Dragon. If you stood at the correct spot and clapped your hands, the sound reverberated and created a loud echo. It’s easy to miss but cool to try!

Omishima

Welcome to Ehime and island number 4! It felt great to get off Tatara Bridge and know I had crossed from Hiroshima Prefecture to Ehime Prefecture. 

Cyclist Sanctuary

After descending the Tatara bridge, I made a quick stop to the Cyclist Sanctuary. There were a few food shops, a grassy lawn, and a nice view of the bridge here.

Relax and Stay at Wakka Hotel

Finally, it was time to head to my accommodation for the night, the Wakka Hotel. This hotel was located on the eastern side of Omishima Island about 10 minutes from the Cyclist Sanctuary.

The entire premises was bike-friendly and felt inviting, open, and new. There were English-speaking staff who helped with check-in and showed me around. 

This was my room for the night, a swanky, ocean-facing dome tent!

What a luxurious first-time “glamping” experience! The inside of the tent was nicer than most hotel rooms I’ve stayed in, and outside was a deck that could be used for BBQing at night. 

Even though it was a tent, it felt spacious and was equipped with electricity, heating, and air conditioning.

WAKKA provides many services including bike transportation, luggage forwarding, day trips, bike rentals, and more. If you’re looking for a comfortable, upscale place to stay on the Shimanami Kaido, WAKKA Hotel is a great place.

After taking some time to relax, unpack, and sip a smoothie at the cafe, I hopped on the hotel-provided shuttle to explore the western side of the island. 

Scared Trees at Oyamazumi Shrine

The shuttle dropped me off at Oyamazumi Shrine, so I made a quick round of the grounds.

The shrine is marked as an important place of worship and was home to millennia-old camphor trees. Inside the shrine was a collection of armor and weaponry of famous samurai, but it was already closed when I visited. 

Salt Water Bath at Mare Grassia

About a 20-minute walk from Oyamazumi Shrine was my next destination, Mare Grassia, a public bathing establishment. 

No towels or bath products were provided so it’s best to bring your own or purchase from the reception desk. Payment was cash only.

There were a variety of baths including massage baths, a large salt bath, a special lavender-smelling bath, a bath with a view, and a sauna. 

It was so nice to soak in the water, resting my body after the day’s activities. What a great way to spend the evening!

After the bath, the sun was just about setting over the water’s edge.

Local Beer at Omishima Brewery

I walked back to near Oyamazumi Shrine to stop by Omishima Brewery for a drink before it closed. 

The Belgium Ale was delicious and full of fruity banana flavor. The brewery’s Japanese interior and tatami mat floors weren’t what I expected, but made for a very chill and calm atmosphere. 

Since drinking and biking are strictly forbidden, to-go containers are provided for those who want to buy something to enjoy later.

Dine-in drinks are sold in American pint or half-pint sizes and payment is cash only. 

Dinner – Kitsune no Botan 

For dinner, I headed to Kitsune no Botan, an izakaya restaurant run by a kind couple. The menu (only in Japanese) was full of unique dishes such as torched tuna with cacao nib sauce and eel with blue cheese slices. 

Reservations were required and payment was cash only. 

After dinner, I rode the hotel shuttle back, washed up, and was out like a rock in my cozy dome tent. 

Breakfast – WAKKA Cafe

Breakfast was served in the hotel’s cafe space that overlooked the water. The meal consisted of a huge salad with bacon and a poached egg, a flakey croissant, and a few spoons of yogurt.

I savored the beautiful morning view as I chowed down on the meal.

Omishima Bridge

Back on the road, I quickly made my way to Omishima Bridge, the easiest and shortest bridge of the bunch.

On to Hakatajima! 

Hakatajima

Cherry Blossoms at Hirakiyama Park 

Those biking during cherry blossom season might want to make the detour to Hirakiyama Park. While very steep, the climb takes you to great views of the Tatara Bridge as well as many cherry blossoms.

I skipped Hirakiyama Park during my ride.

Roadside Station Hakata S-C park

My next stop was the Roadside Station Hakata S-C Park. Even though it was still early, not yet 10 am, I got the salt-flavored ice cream and ate it by the water. The sweet-saltiness was addicting!

The roadside station had a bathroom, restaurant, and gift area. 

Hakata Oshima Bridge

This bridge was made up of the Hakata Bridge (145 meters) and the Oshima Bridge (560 meters).

Oshima

I arrived in Oshima, the last island on the route before Imabari City! I again diverged from the “recommended” route and chose a path that followed the sea. 

The hardest part of the ride was at Tanoura Pass which came with a steep incline.

I had to get off my bike right at the end since I lost momentum and walked for a few minutes. Soon I reached the top and had a lovely view of the road and sea below before zooming down the other side of the pass.

Lunch at Cafe Shozan

After the pass, I made it to my lunch spot for the day, Cafe Shozan. 

I got a nice counter seat that looked out into the sea. There were three set meal options, meat sauce pasta, carbonara pasta, or beef curry. Each set came with a big salad and a choice of drink. 

It was nice to eat with the great view and rest out of the sun. By noon, the cafe was busy, and new arrivals had to wait to be seated. 

For a quick lunch, the place next door was selling to-go sandwiches. 

Yoshiumi Rose Park

A few minutes from the cafe, I came across Yoshiumi Rose Park. This park was full of over 400 types of roses and 3,500 bushes, most of which were in full bloom.

I wasn’t planning on stopping, but after seeing the sea of color, I pulled over for a quick walk around the park. 

The park was free to enter and nearby stalls sold rose ice cream and other food. 

Kirosan Observatory Park

After the rose park, I decided to take a detour to Kirosan Observatory Park. 

The path to the observatory was much steeper than any of the other inclines I had done with a 5-9% grade most of the way and a 10% + grade during the final section. 

Going in I knew I would have to push my bike most of the way.

For about 45 minutes I trudged up the hill, passed by cars, motorcyclists, and more experienced road bikers. I’m not going to lie that it was extremely taxing and I had to stop quite a lot, but since the weather was good, and I wanted the view, I kept going, step after step.

It was a 2.8 km (1.7 mile) trek, but red-faced and sweating bullets, I finally reached the top!

Indeed the view was amazing with the long Kurashima Kaikyo Bridge stretched out below like a thin belt across the sea. 

Being so high above the bridge and surrounding mountains made me realize the feat I had accomplished in climbing to the observatory and in covering the distance I had over the past two days. 

Near the observatory, there was a small shop that sold sweets like lemon cake and ice cream. There were also restrooms. 

I took a short rest, then headed down the mountain, a swift cycle that only took seven minutes.

The journey up to the observatory was extremely difficult and those without hill climbing experience or an electric bike will most likely need to walk some or all of the way. The view was great, but I only recommend the climb on a nice day, to those who value nice views. If time is short, the weather isn’t great, or if views aren’t your thing, skip the observatory, save your energy, and head to the next bridge!

Roadside Station Yoshiumi Iki Iki Kan

Before the last bridge was a small roadside station with a great view of the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge. 

There was also a seafood BBQ restaurant where you could choose your favorite seafood and grill it yourself over a charcoal grill. It reminded me of the kakigoya oyster huts in Itoshima!

I didn’t have room for a full BBQ meal, so I picked up an orange fruit jelly instead, took a picture, and then departed to conquer the last bridge.  

Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge

This bridge was so long! Even on a bike, it felt like it just kept going and going. Three different suspension bridges made up this bridge totaling a central span of 2,650 meters. 

Compared to the other bridges, there were some slight inclines, but nothing too difficult. 

While crossing the bridge, the water below rippled and swirled in interesting shapes.

Imabari

I finally entered Imabari City! With no more bridges or mountains to climb, it would be smooth sailing from here. 

Kurushima Strait Observatory

After exiting the last bridge, I made a stop at the Kurushima Strait Observatory. From here there was a great view of the final bridge and a small shop that sold snacks and drinks. 

Ride through Imabari

The ride from the observatory to the end goal at Imabari Station was rather unexciting compared to the rest of the trip. There were only city streets filled with cars and stoplights making it a slightly anticlimactic end to the long journey.

Start and End of the Shimanami Kaido – Photo Spot

The last stop of my ride was a photo spot close to Imabari Station. This colorful mural was located outside of the guesthouse, Cyclo No Ie, and was a great way to commemorate the trip. 

Seeing the mural was the best part – I had done it, I had completed the Shimanami Kaido!

Imabari Station – Bike Return

After arriving at Imabari Station, I headed to the Shimanami Japan Rental Cycle Shop to return the bike. The staff did a quick check then directed me inside to finalize the return. 

I showed the receipt I had received on the first day and that was it!

Since I was headed back to Fukuoka, I took the Shimanami Liner Bus back to Fukuyama Station. The last buses were at 5:30 pm, 6:30 pm, and 7:30 pm. You can find the bus schedule here. 

Reservations aren’t necessary although if the bus is full, you’ll need to wait for the next one. You can buy tickets at the bus window, or pay for the ride on board when alighting (cash only). 

The ride from Imabari Station to Fukuyama Station took about an hour and a half and cost 2,800 yen. 

Riding the bus back across the bridges that just a few hours earlier had taken so much effort to cross was weird. In retrospect, it would have been nice to spend the night exploring and relaxing in Imabari. Oh well, next time!

Before I knew it, I was back in Hiroshima and ready to take the Shinkansen home. 

Where to Stay on the Shimanami Kaido

Start or End in Onomichi

For a simple yet nice stay in Onomichi, I recommend urashima INN GANGI. This hotel was right by the water and offered lovely views during sunrise and daytime. The room was more spacious than a typical business hotel and included modern fixtures.

Halfway on Omishima

Omishima is about halfway on the Shimanami Kaido making it a great place to spend the night. I loved my stay at WAKKA Hotel. There were private cottage rooms, dome tents, and dormitory-style rooms. Those staying in the cottage or dome tents have the option for a BBQ dinner outside their room. 

The location was picturesque, and the facilities, clean and spacious. (Showers and toilets were shared).

For an upscale place to relax and make the most of the beautiful scenery on the Shimanai Kaido, I recommend WAKKA Hotel!

For a more budget-friendly option located just a few minutes from WAKKA Hotel, there is I-Link Hostel & Cafe Shimanami. Single, twin, and dormitory rooms are available. 

Start or End in Imabari

I didn’t stay in Imabari, but Cyclo No Ie. was recommended to me as a super friendly guest house for riders that has private rooms and dormitory-style rooms. Outside the guest house is the start/end mural that makes for a great photo op! Check out Cyclo No Ie. 

Final Thoughts

After crossing the last bridge and taking my “goal” photo near the station, I couldn’t help the feeling of accomplishment within me. I had completed the Shimanami Kaido! 

It was hard not to smile as the thought went through my mind. This trip had been at the top of my “to-do” list for quite some time and it felt wonderful to complete it. 

I was nervous at first, but once on the road, I only felt exhilaration, freedom, and happiness. A lot of sweat and leg power went into the ride, but it was a great experience. And now I have a greater appreciation for bridges.  

After a break, I’m looking forward to planning my next adventure! Where to next?

Looking for a handy, comprehensive guide to the Shimanami Kaido? Check out my digital guide here which has all the information in this blog post and more in an easy-to-read, compact format!

Looking for more bike adventures in Japan? Check out these other posts!

• Biking around Lake Biwa – Japan’s Largest Lake! Biwaichi Cycle Route – Ride around Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest lake!
• Biking in Itoshima – Sunset Road and Cafes by the Sea – Explore the beautiful coast of Fukuoka dotted with cafes and picturesque views.
• Biking Around Sakurajima: A Complete Guide – Hop on a bike to see Kagoshima’s Sakurajima volcano from all sides.
• Ride Along the Coast in Okagaki – Visit Okagaki, Fukuoka, a small seaside town with idyllic beaches and lots of seafood.