Earlier this week, I visited Kunenan Garden (九年庵) and Niiyama Shrine (仁比山神社) in Kanzaki, Saga to check out the fall colors. While this year’s color change has been super delayed, I could still enjoy a nice time taking in the atmosphere of beautiful trees and Japanese architecture.
Are you exploring Saga in the Fall? You might want to add these places to your list!
Kunenan, a 9-Year Retreat
Kunenan is a designated “Place of Scenic Beauty,” known for its picturesque view of stunning maple trees in the fall. The area was once the house of a Saga businessman and includes a traditional residence – with a thatched roof, mud walls, and open porches – as well as a meticulously landscaped Japanese garden with around 700 trees.
It took 9 years to construct Kunenan, which is where its name, meaning “9-year retreat,” comes from.
Since this year’s summer was so hot and long, the fall colors have been significantly delayed. Kunenan is only open for 9 days each year, so I visited as late as I could, but even so, I saw only the very beginning of orange and red leaves.
From the street, a slightly uphill path lined with some stalls led to the entrance of Kunenan. A 1,000 yen entry fee was required to enter the gardens.
Past the entry gate, the first part of the path was a boarded walkway that opened up to large stone steps. Sticking to the one-way route, I followed the procession of other visitors.
The path wound around the residence where bright red carpets lined the floor and open walls allowed for direct views to the other side.
A steep flight of makeshift metal stairs led to an optional wider viewing space of maple trees. While nice, very few of the trees had changed color.
After going back down the stairs, there was a bit more of the path before the exit gate.
The view that I had of the garden was much different from the advertised scenery of blazing red leaves which made the visit a bit underwhelming.
For 1,000 yen, I wished that more of the trees would have changed color and that there was a place to sit and enjoy the view rather than just walking along the path.
Of course, it’s hard to predict the weather, so it’s understandable that each year might not be the best. A great view requires some luck!
Tip: Kunenan is a very popular place visited by many tour groups. It was already busy by 9:30 am when I arrived, and became increasingly more so as the day went on. While it is impossible to avoid crowds, the earlier you come, the calmer it will be. Kunenan opens at 8 am and closes at 4 pm.
You can find Kunenan’s public open days on the Kanzaki Tourism homepage. (In Japanese only.) Note that the timing of the maple’s color change varies each year and may not align with the open days. If you are unable to visit Kunenan when it is open, I still recommend a visit to Niiyama Shrine!
Niiyama Shrine
Outside of Kunenan a bit further up the road is Niiyama Shrine. This area was also surrounded by colorful maple trees and had several food stalls set up around the grounds.
I enjoyed feeling the embrace of fall’s cool touch while sipping a warm cup of matcha tea.
Niiyama Shrine is open year-round and is free to visit. I found the trees near here more interesting than the ones at Kunenan.
Access – How to Get to Kunenan and Niiyama Shrine
Using Public Transportation
Take the train from Hakata Station to Kanzaki Station. You might need to transfer trains midway at Tosu Station. The fastest trip is about 1 hour and costs from 860 yen to 1,700 yen depending on the trains you take.
During the days Kunenan is open to the public, a special shuttle bus runs between the garden and Kanzaki Station. A one-way trip costs 300 yen (cash only) and lasts about 10 minutes. You can find the timetable on the event page. The shuttle schedule for 2024 is listed here.
Other Places to Visit Nearby
If you are into onsens, Higashi Sefuri Onsen Sazanka Hot Spring is a nice public hot spring with several outdoor and indoor baths. I visited twice in one weekend since it was so nice!
Kira Honten is a good restaurant to try Saga’s Wagyu beef. Cook the meat yourself on an inlaid hotplate on the table.
In the spring, you can see carp streamers over the Kase River.
If you like pottery, check out my guide for what to do in Arita!
Where to Stay in Saga
While I haven’t stayed in Kazaki before, I have some recommendations for places to stay in other areas of Saga if you happen to be touring around the prefecture.
Accommodation options in Arita are limited, but there are a few options if you book early. If you can’t find a place in Arita, you can also check out hotels in nearby Ureshino Onsen and Takeo Onsen.
arita huis (Arita)
arita huis was renovated in the Spring of 2018 and is located in the Arita Sera shopping complex.
The hotel has a spacious dining area and 10 guest rooms. The double room I stayed in was very compact with much of the space in the main room taken up by the bed.
The bathroom featured concrete walls and a minimal aesthetic. From the website, it looks like some of the other rooms are more spacious than the one I stayed in.
A delicious breakfast was served in the morning – I especially enjoyed the bread that came with the poached egg.
This hotel is a good place to stay given its convenience to the Arita Sera shopping street and Arita Station.
Shukubo Shingetsu (Arita)
For an upscale experience, this is the newly built Shukuo Shingetsu. I visited the area and was wowed by the exterior alone. A stay here is on my bucket list!
“Shukubo” is the term for accommodations for Buddhist monks and worshippers. “Shingetsu” is made up of the kanji “heart” and “moon” and means “having a heart as clear and bright as the moon.”
The hotel offers three private rooms in detached buildings. The rooms are constructed to highlight natural materials and elements of Arita porcelain. Breakfast and dinner are included and served at the restaurant, Yasuna.
Keramiek Arita (Arita)
Keramiek means Ceramic in Dutch!
I haven’t stayed at this guesthouse yet, but I’ve only heard good things about it from those who have. Located a 5-minute drive from Arita Station, Keramiek Arita is another option for those who want to stay overnight in Arita.
Ryokan Oomuraya (Ureshino)
If you choose to stay in Ureshino Onsen, I highly recommend Ryokan Oomuraya!
This hot spring inn was founded during the Edo period and is the oldest inn in Ureshino Onsen. The concept of the inn is “enjoying a post-bath experience with music and books.”
The inn has a special music lounge with records and headphones as well as a music-themed bar.
Even the rooms come with a speaker and CD player. When I walked into my room, The Beatles was playing! There are private and public baths to enjoy the special waters of Ureshino.
Want to see more interesting places in Kyushu? Check out my new book!
I created this photobook as a visual introduction to the grandeur of Japan’s Kyushu region. The 80 pages contain full-color photographs and text depicting various spots for sightseeing, enjoying nature, and experiencing seasonal festivals. Enjoy perusing the pages and discovering Kyushu’s less-traveled treasures!