Solo Hiking the Nakasendo Trail: Complete Guide and Itinerary
July 28, 2023
Nakasendo Trail History
The Nakasendo Trail (中山道) is an old walking route that connected Edo (modern-day Tokyo) with Kyoto during the Edo period. The trail is 540 km (340 mi) long, and back in the day, 69 post towns were dotted along the way for travelers to rest and recover.
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Tsumago post town along the Nakasendo route
Hiking this trail is the perfect activity for those who are looking for a unique Japanese experience outside of the touristy Kyoto/Tokyo scene. Outdoor enthusiasts will revel in the lush and tranquil scenery, while history buffs will enjoy seeing the preserved post towns (think wooden buildings, no power lines, no cars…).
Tiny frogs on the Nakasendo
While you can certainly hike the entire length of the trail, for a nice, bite-sized trip, I recommend the section along Kiso Road from Nagiso Station to Nakatsugawa Station. This hilly path ventures through waterfalls, forests, seasonal flowers, and creeks. Along the way, you will stop by Tsumago and Magome, two of the most well-preserved post towns on the trail. This route is the perfect length for a one-night, two-day trip, and can even be solo-hiked!
Want to follow me on the journey? Enjoy this vlog – Solo Hiking on the Nakasendo Trail! And don’t forget to subscribe on Youtube!
Free Nakasendo Resources – Trail Maps and Info
I picked up many maps and travel brochures at Tourist Information centers during my trip. These handouts contain so much great information that I wish I had seen beforehand. Lucky for you readers, I have taken pictures of the pamphlets and turned them into pdfs so you can take a look before your trip.
Nakasendo trail maps and other information. Download this and others below!
A trail book about each post town along the way. Download this and others using the links above! All rights to the Kiso Tourist Federation.
I hope this information is helpful for planning your Nakasendo journey!
Best Time to Hike the Nakasendo Trail
I hiked the trail in July 2021. Though the weather was less than optimal (ie. it rained A LOT), the scenery was still breathtaking. The best time to hike the Nakasendo is during the spring months of April and May, or in the fall around November. Outside of these times, the summer months are hot and humid with a high likelihood of typhoons, and the winter requires extra gear to ward off the cold.
It was a rainy trip, but I survived!
Nakasendo Itinerary
Before heading out, I spent a few nights in Nagoya. From Nagoy,a my itinerary was as follows:
Kanayama Station→ Nagiso Station with a transfer atNakatsugawa Station. ¥3,420. Note that IC cards don’t work when you get to Nagiso Station, so get a train ticket before boarding! (If you accidentally use your IC card, you will need to pay for a ticket with cash on the train and then clear your IC card with an attendant at the next station.)
Because the trail is hilly and has several cobblestone sections, you won’t want to lug around suitcases and bulky bags. I recommend sending your luggage through takuhaibin (宅配便) to your next destination. Takuhaibin is a very popular and convenient service for sending parcels, luggage, and other goods door-to-door nationwide. Delivery is usually the next day, and the cost is reasonable. Ask your accommodations if this is available! I sent one of my bags to Kyoto from Nagoya for ¥1050 and just brought my backpack and a change of clothes on the trip.
Since Magome and Tsumago are quiet towns that close early, make sure to have your lodging plans squared away before heading out. I used booking.com to reserve my stay, and it worked great!
The trail is extremely well marked, but for good measure, bring a backup map (Google Maps worked for me).
Hopefully, you have better weather luck than I did, but in any case, make sure you check the weather! Mosquito repellent (in the summer), good walking/ hiking shoes, and water are also a must!
A rain cover for your backpack is a great way to ensure your stuff stays dry.
For photo enthusiasts, don’t forget a tripod, too! (This is my trusty Manfrotto Compact Action tripod that I’ve taken on all my trips).
Nagiso Station to Tsumago
3.5km | Bus or Walk
For a two-day, one-night trip, I recommend starting at Nagiso Station. From Nagiso Station, you can take a bus to Tsumago, but it is extremely infrequent and has you skip out on a nice part of the walking experience.
Instead of the bus, I recommend walking the 3.5km route to Tsumago.
A little more than halfway to Tsumago, you can take a detour to see the Tsumago Castle Ruins. While it goes through a small bamboo forest and gives you a nice view of Tsumago, I think it’s okay to skip.
Detour to Tsumago Castle Ruins
Tsumago Post Town
When you first enter Tsumago, a large water wheel will greet you. The town is so beautiful with its wooden structures and quiet roads.
Tsumago on the Nakasendo Trail
Stop by the Tourist Information building for recommendations on where to eat and to learn a little more about the town and the Nakasendo Trail. The employees are extremely friendly and share lots of great information!
I had lunch at a cafe and ate a massive galette. It was huge, but I was starving and devoured it all.
Galette for lunch
After lunch, you can walk around and explore the town. Some places to check out are the History Museum, Honjin (a historical inn for government officials), and Kotoku Temple.
Tsumago’s History MuseumKotaku Temple
Additionally, make note of the masugata or right-angled roads. Post towns like Tsumago were responsible for providing security for travelers (daimyos and aristocrats), so special right-angled roads inside the town were created to thwart attacks from potential burglars and rebels. Only a few of these special roads still exist today.
Masugata right-angled streets
Side note: The bathrooms in Tsumago are so nice! They smell wonderfully of wood and are clean and spacious. Make sure to go before hitting the road!
Restrooms in Tsumago
Tsumago to Magome
7.7km | Walk
After leaving Tsumago, there is a long uphill section followed by a gradual downhill to Magome.
Leaving Tsumago for Magome
Odaki / Medaki (Male Waterfall and Female Waterfall)
Odaki Medaki Waterfalls
One of the highlights during this section of the journey is the Male (Odaki) and Woman (Medaki) waterfalls, which sit almost side by side. It is said that the Japanese swordsman, philosopher, and writer, Miyamoto Musashi, practiced his skills at these waterfalls in the 17th century.
Medaki Waterfall on the Nakasendo Trail
Magome is a quaint town that is built on an incline. Water wheels and small shops line the cobblestone street. The town closes early, so make sure you arrive with lodging and food plans prearranged!
Magome Post Town
Where to Stay in Magome: Guest House Motomiya
I stayed overnight at an amazing place called Guest House Motomiya. If you are looking for a place with delicious food (dinner and breakfast) and traditional Japanese-style rooms that are nice and spacious, I can’t recommend this place more!
Guest House Motomiya
I made the reservation here! It was super straightforward to book, and the host was very responsive. One of my favorite booking platforms for travel stays, I highly recommend checking it out! The Guest House is right on the Nakasendo Trai,l so it is very convenient.
The provided dinner was a feast that included sushi, tempura, meat, veggies, potato, eggplant, sashimi, octopus, pickled veggies, and umeshu.
The last leg of the journey is from Magome to Nakatsugawa Station.
Rice fields and houses in Magome
Cobblestone Path of Ochiai The cobblestone path of Ochiai is super neat and runs through a canopy of trees. When it rains, the cobblestones become SUPER slippery, so be careful!
Cobblestone Path of Ochiai
Ochiai Town
The trail passes through Ochiai, another of the original post towns. Unlike Magome and Tsumago, however, Ochiai is much less preserved and feels more like a modern-day town.
The last bit of the walk to Nakatsugawa Station runs alongside the highway.
Final Thoughts
I am super happy to have hiked on such a historical trail and seen the preserved post towns of Tsumago and Magome. Though the weather was a bit of a hassle at times, the beauty of the landscape never ceased. Since this Nakasendo course contains wonderful nature and history all wrapped up in one and is relatively easy to do, I recommend it to all adventure and outdoor enthusiasts!
Don’t forget to download the FREE trail guide and information PDFs here!
Bike ride and cafe hopping in Itoshima! – The perfect activity to explore the coast of Itoshima, Fukuoka.
19 thoughts on “Solo Hiking the Nakasendo Trail: Complete Guide and Itinerary”
Tim Rizvanov
This is really fantastic and detailed overview of the hike. I even added it to my itenary and created a full route on GoogleMaps to use when I (eventually) come to Japan. 🙂
I finished hiking the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo a few days ago and have been looking for other hikes ever since. Thanks for the comprehensive guide (and video)! Will definitely go when summer ends
Hello and thanks for all the info! One thing I don’t see (sorry if I missed it) is how long it took you to do this hike. Can you stay in camp sites (I like my tent 🙂
Hello, thanks for your comment! I only did a small section from Nagiso Station to Nakatsugawa Station which passed through Tsumago and Magome. This took two days, one night. About camping, apologies but I don’t know much about that situation. I’ve read about some people doing it but you will probably have to find more information on camping sites in the area. Have a great trip!
Hello! I think it would be quite a long day trip. The train from Nagoya to Nagsio is 1-2 hours. According to Google, the walk from Nagiso Station to Nakatsugawa Station is about 5 hours (not factoring stops along the way and the different pace of walking). The train from Nakatsugawa Station to Nagoya Station is 1 hour to 1.5 hours. So you’re looking at 7-9 hours not including stops, with minimal wait times between transfers. It wouldn’t be my ideal day trip, but it’s probably doable.
Late May / early April is generally the time when cherry blossoms bloom on the Nakasendo. However, the exact blooming times depend heavily on the weather and rain that are leading up to that time. The Japan Meteorological Corporation publishes the Sakura forecast multiple times each year. This would be a good place to reference for a more exact estimate! https://n-kishou.com/corp/news-contents/sakura/?lang=en
Food can be a bit difficult since most meals are provided by the guest houses. I recommend reaching out to places directly or searching their websites to see if they can accommodate!
Me and my friend followed this guide on April 21, 2025, and I wanna write a small report of good things to know.
We started our day in Nagoya on a Monday morning. I had looked up some information about the trains and since we are no morning persons, we took the Shinano from Nagoya Station bound for Nagano at 10:00, as this train stops at Nagiso (but I believe only the one departing at 10 and 15, the others require a change in Nakatsugawa). The train was 3220 yen in total per person if reserving a seat which I did the evening before from the machines at Nagoya Station (there were only 6 seats left at that point). The train also has non-reserved seats but I did not check availability. It is true that you cannot use IC card on this train, as the ticket is base fare + limited express surcharge, and as mentioned in the article, the gate in Nagiso does not take IC card. This train takes 59 minutes so we arrived at 11.
Before boarding the train, we put our bags in a coin locker at Sakuradori Line, which was 700 per day for a large suitcase and 600 for a small. You can keep your bags in a coin locker for up to three days. There was about 20 – 30 large lockers and on a Monday morning all were available.
The walk from Nagiso was very pretty. Although it was too late for cherry blossom (if there were any trees along the path), there were a lot of what I belive was plum trees that were blossoming at the time.
There’s also frequent restrooms along the way between Nagiso and Magome-juku, but I belive none or very few towards Nakatsugawa.
We went up to the castle ruins at Tsumago-juku, which was a pretty steep uphill but it was about 300m or so. You could see out over Tsumago-juku but other than that I felt like it wasn’t something to go out of my way for in case time or energy is limited.
When we walked the trail was basically empty, we only met a handful of people walking in the other direction (which I’ve come to learn is more common), but I’d believe it will be way more busy next week as it’s golden week. The only crowds were at Tsumago-juku, where we arrived at 14 and had some wonderful soba for lunch.
As we had a late start, we reached Magome-juku around 17 – 18, meaning everything was closed, but it also meant that there were no one around, so we could take some beautiful pictures in the sunset of Magome-juku.
You have to book accommodations very early. I only started planning in beginning of March and at that point the only accommodation was a old elementary school called Magome Furusato Gakkou that they have turned into a community center and a guest house, which was about a 10 minute walk away. Honestly, it was pretty unique experience that I don’t know if you can experience in other places in Japan. Renting a private classroom for two people were about 15 000 yen for a night and you get a balcony with a view over Mount Ena. They also have dormitory with capsules or twin beds behind curtains for about 13 000 yen.
An important note if you get an accommodation without meals, there are no restaurants open after 15 – 16 and you will not be able to have dinner without taking a taxi to Nakatsugawa and back. There is supposedly a kaiseki restaurant that is open later but it has to be booked in advance over the phone. So do bring something to eat. We bought rice and curry that store at room temperature from a Family Mart in Nagoya that you just heat in the microwave, and some noodles and snacks. It turns out that the school hostel also sold this at the reception, but we did not know that.
The next day we explored Magome-juku and had some breakfast as shops opened up, then continued to Nakatsugawa.
In our opinion, unless you really want to walk the stone path in the forest, you can shorten the adventure and just take the bus to Nakatsugawa and make your way back to Nagoya. We felt like compared to the hike the day before, the second day was not as enjoyable. Note that the busses can be a bit infrequent so check Google maps before.
From Nakatsugawa, you have two options of train, the more expensive Shinano that takes about 55 minutes for 2870 yen that you will have to get the paper ticket for the limited express surcharge, or the slower Chuo line for 1340 yen that takes 1 hour 26 minutes. You can use your IC card from this station. Note that if you plan to eat on the train, it is generally only acceptable on the Shinano and not the on Chuo like as the Chuo line does not have front facing seats while the Shinano does. Also, it seems like that the Chuo Line has a toilet on board too.
Thank you so much for sharing this!! I’m inspired to try the same trail. I read and saw in your vlog that there are quite a few inclines and downhills. I was wondering if a person who is not super fit can handle it- by taking it slow and having a few rest stops on the way? Thank you in advance for the guidance!
I just wanted to stay thank you for this detailed post. My family (two adults, two teens) are in Magome right now thanks to your post! I wanted something just like this to add to our itinerary and the information you provided made it so easy. Unbelievably beautiful scenery, people are friendly. Amazing history. Highly recommend!
This is really fantastic and detailed overview of the hike. I even added it to my itenary and created a full route on GoogleMaps to use when I (eventually) come to Japan. 🙂
https://goo.gl/maps/vhfp1ZxNTuhomeqP8
Wonderful!! I hope you have a great trip when you come to Japan 🙂
I finished hiking the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo a few days ago and have been looking for other hikes ever since. Thanks for the comprehensive guide (and video)! Will definitely go when summer ends
Awesome! Hope you have a great time on the Nakasendo. I hope to try the Kumano Kodo next!
Hello and thanks for all the info! One thing I don’t see (sorry if I missed it) is how long it took you to do this hike. Can you stay in camp sites (I like my tent 🙂
Cheers!
Hello, thanks for your comment! I only did a small section from Nagiso Station to Nakatsugawa Station which passed through Tsumago and Magome. This took two days, one night. About camping, apologies but I don’t know much about that situation. I’ve read about some people doing it but you will probably have to find more information on camping sites in the area. Have a great trip!
This looks amazing. I was wondering can your itinerary all be done in one day? i.e. start and finish up in Nagoya by the end of the day?
Hello! I think it would be quite a long day trip. The train from Nagoya to Nagsio is 1-2 hours. According to Google, the walk from Nagiso Station to Nakatsugawa Station is about 5 hours (not factoring stops along the way and the different pace of walking). The train from Nakatsugawa Station to Nagoya Station is 1 hour to 1.5 hours. So you’re looking at 7-9 hours not including stops, with minimal wait times between transfers. It wouldn’t be my ideal day trip, but it’s probably doable.
This looks really great and all your info is so useful! If we wanted to do 2 or 3 nights on the nakasendo trail, where would you suggest?
Informative n great post. Was wondering if there are cherry blossoms during April ? Planning a trip here first/second week of April?
Late May / early April is generally the time when cherry blossoms bloom on the Nakasendo. However, the exact blooming times depend heavily on the weather and rain that are leading up to that time. The Japan Meteorological Corporation publishes the Sakura forecast multiple times each year. This would be a good place to reference for a more exact estimate! https://n-kishou.com/corp/news-contents/sakura/?lang=en
Hi – this looks really interesting and would love to do a few days walk. Do you think we would struggle with food – we’re vegetarian
Food can be a bit difficult since most meals are provided by the guest houses. I recommend reaching out to places directly or searching their websites to see if they can accommodate!
Thanks for the guide!
Me and my friend followed this guide on April 21, 2025, and I wanna write a small report of good things to know.
We started our day in Nagoya on a Monday morning. I had looked up some information about the trains and since we are no morning persons, we took the Shinano from Nagoya Station bound for Nagano at 10:00, as this train stops at Nagiso (but I believe only the one departing at 10 and 15, the others require a change in Nakatsugawa). The train was 3220 yen in total per person if reserving a seat which I did the evening before from the machines at Nagoya Station (there were only 6 seats left at that point). The train also has non-reserved seats but I did not check availability. It is true that you cannot use IC card on this train, as the ticket is base fare + limited express surcharge, and as mentioned in the article, the gate in Nagiso does not take IC card. This train takes 59 minutes so we arrived at 11.
Before boarding the train, we put our bags in a coin locker at Sakuradori Line, which was 700 per day for a large suitcase and 600 for a small. You can keep your bags in a coin locker for up to three days. There was about 20 – 30 large lockers and on a Monday morning all were available.
The walk from Nagiso was very pretty. Although it was too late for cherry blossom (if there were any trees along the path), there were a lot of what I belive was plum trees that were blossoming at the time.
There’s also frequent restrooms along the way between Nagiso and Magome-juku, but I belive none or very few towards Nakatsugawa.
We went up to the castle ruins at Tsumago-juku, which was a pretty steep uphill but it was about 300m or so. You could see out over Tsumago-juku but other than that I felt like it wasn’t something to go out of my way for in case time or energy is limited.
When we walked the trail was basically empty, we only met a handful of people walking in the other direction (which I’ve come to learn is more common), but I’d believe it will be way more busy next week as it’s golden week. The only crowds were at Tsumago-juku, where we arrived at 14 and had some wonderful soba for lunch.
As we had a late start, we reached Magome-juku around 17 – 18, meaning everything was closed, but it also meant that there were no one around, so we could take some beautiful pictures in the sunset of Magome-juku.
You have to book accommodations very early. I only started planning in beginning of March and at that point the only accommodation was a old elementary school called Magome Furusato Gakkou that they have turned into a community center and a guest house, which was about a 10 minute walk away. Honestly, it was pretty unique experience that I don’t know if you can experience in other places in Japan. Renting a private classroom for two people were about 15 000 yen for a night and you get a balcony with a view over Mount Ena. They also have dormitory with capsules or twin beds behind curtains for about 13 000 yen.
An important note if you get an accommodation without meals, there are no restaurants open after 15 – 16 and you will not be able to have dinner without taking a taxi to Nakatsugawa and back. There is supposedly a kaiseki restaurant that is open later but it has to be booked in advance over the phone. So do bring something to eat. We bought rice and curry that store at room temperature from a Family Mart in Nagoya that you just heat in the microwave, and some noodles and snacks. It turns out that the school hostel also sold this at the reception, but we did not know that.
The next day we explored Magome-juku and had some breakfast as shops opened up, then continued to Nakatsugawa.
In our opinion, unless you really want to walk the stone path in the forest, you can shorten the adventure and just take the bus to Nakatsugawa and make your way back to Nagoya. We felt like compared to the hike the day before, the second day was not as enjoyable. Note that the busses can be a bit infrequent so check Google maps before.
From Nakatsugawa, you have two options of train, the more expensive Shinano that takes about 55 minutes for 2870 yen that you will have to get the paper ticket for the limited express surcharge, or the slower Chuo line for 1340 yen that takes 1 hour 26 minutes. You can use your IC card from this station. Note that if you plan to eat on the train, it is generally only acceptable on the Shinano and not the on Chuo like as the Chuo line does not have front facing seats while the Shinano does. Also, it seems like that the Chuo Line has a toilet on board too.
Thank you for sharing your experience too!
Thank you so much for sharing this!! I’m inspired to try the same trail. I read and saw in your vlog that there are quite a few inclines and downhills. I was wondering if a person who is not super fit can handle it- by taking it slow and having a few rest stops on the way? Thank you in advance for the guidance!
Yes, I think that it is still doable. Taking it slow, resting, and avoiding the hot summer months is key!
I just wanted to stay thank you for this detailed post. My family (two adults, two teens) are in Magome right now thanks to your post! I wanted something just like this to add to our itinerary and the information you provided made it so easy. Unbelievably beautiful scenery, people are friendly. Amazing history. Highly recommend!
Thank you so much for this!! I’m so glad you found the post helpful and that it sounds like you had a wonderful time.