The following is an account of my travels throughout Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four major islands. This was my first time exploring the region by car, so I was excited to visit locations off the beaten path that are otherwise difficult to reach by public transportation.
Up and down the mountains of Shikoku, I came across rivers that shone an array of blue-green hues, traversed through a jungly gorge, pressed my own washi paper postcards, rested in a serene riverside guesthouse, and so much more!
Come with me as we adventure in Shikoku, Japan!
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Visiting Shikoku Vlog
It’s time for a 3-day road trip around Shikoku! On this journey, we will drive through the four prefectures of Shikoku, including Kochi, Tokushima, Kagawa, and Ehime, to see the area’s famous blue waters, hike in the stunning Nakatsu Gorge, try seared tataki katsuo, and more!
Where is Shikoku?
Shikoku is the smallest of Japan’s four main islands and comprises four prefectures: Kagawa, Tokushima, Ehime, and Kochi. It is separated from Honshu by the Seto Inland Sea and is a region known for its pristine nature and waters, which are nicknamed “Niyodo Blue”.
Since the transportation network here is not as built out as in larger cities, traveling in Shikoku by car is ideal.
Day 1 – Okayama, Tokushima, Kochi
Renting a Car at Okayama Station
I made my way by Shinkansen to Okayama Station. From here, I rented a car from a nearby Toyota Rent-a-Car and set out on the journey.
View from Above at Koboke Gorge Observatory
After about 2 hours of driving from Okayama Station, I arrived at the Koboke Gorge Observation Deck.
From here, a grand view of the valley lay out before me. The Yoshino River running between the tall mountains had a bright emerald tint to its waters that seemed almost unnatural. Beside the river, the national road snaked in and out of tunnels.
Riding the Oboke Pleasure Cruise
After taking in the view at the observation deck, I headed down to the water to enjoy the view from aboard the Oboke Gorge Sightseeing Boat. I bought tickets inside the building, then headed down to board. Since this is a popular sightseeing spot, there were several tour buses when I visited.
Though the sound of the boat’s motor was loud and a bit distracting, I still enjoyed the view of the rocks and seeing the river’s vibrant waters up close.
Game Meat Lunch
While there was a restaurant in the same building where the boat cruise was held, it was full of other tourists. Instead of eating there, I headed 1 minute down the road to a much quieter rest stop and tried dishes made from game meat at Cafe and Gibier.
I ordered deer and boar cold soba, and my partner ordered a boar and venison salsa avocado burger.
It was a unique meal, and I enjoyed the calm of the area compared to where we had come from.
Next to the cafe was a museum of yokai or monsters. A bit creepy!
Crossing the Iya Valley Vine Bridge
After lunch, it was back in the car for about 20 minutes to reach the Iya Valley Vine Bridge. I paid 500 yen to park the car and then walked a short way to the entrance of the bridge.
A crossing fee was required, and like the previous spot, there were more tour buses than I had expected.
The bridge itself was beautiful, with thick knotted vines that made up the main structure. It spanned 45m wide and 2m long. Since there were large gaps between the horizontal planks, care had to be taken when walking. With each step, the bridge swayed as the river rushed below.
Biwa Waterfall
Right next to the bridge was a bonus sightseeing spot, Biwa Waterfall! Just one minute from the bridge, this was a nice spot to see a towering waterfall.
Near the falls, shops sold salted river fish, miso rice balls on a stick, udon, and more.
Seared Tataki Katsuo at Kochi’s Hirome Market
After the Iya Valley Vine Bridge, I made my way to Kochi City.
For dinner, I stopped at the Hirome Market to try the area’s famous Tataki Katsuo or seared skipjack tuna. The market was incredibly busy and humming with activity.
I picked up an assortment of goodies, then squeezed to sit in the central eating area. On the menu was (of course) seared skipjack tuna, maguro sashimi, fish cake and cucumber, fried chicken skin gyoza, regular gyoza, and fried seaweed. To wash it all down, I had a small bottle of dry sake.
The skipjack tuna had been seared right before me, heated by dazzling red flames that were fed by fistfuls of dry straw. I enjoyed the decadent fish with ponzu sauce, sliced garlic, green onions, salt, and lemon. What a treat!
Overnight in Kochi City
I stayed overnight at the Comfort Hotel Kochi near Hirome Market. The hotel was a standard hotel – nothing much to write home about – but it was located in a very convenient location for accessing local restaurants and the nearby Kochi Castle.
Day 2 – Kochi
Morning Walk Around Kochi Castle
Day two started with a morning walk around Kochi Castle. It was already hot by morning, so walking the steps had me immediately sweating and out of breath. Inside the castle, there were rooms to walk through and a view of the city below. Shoes must be taken off to enter, and there are steep stairs!
Washi Paper Making Experience and Museum
From Kochi Castle, it was a 30-minute drive to the Ino-cho Washi Paper Museum. Here, I made small sheets of washi paper and walked around the museum.
The washi paper-making experience was quite straightforward: sift the pulp in a mold, clean the edges, and then press dry. I finished with 8 pieces of thick washi paper to take home.
The museum was also interesting, with many explanations about the washi paper-making process, tools, and examples of items made with the paper.
There was also a lovely shop where I ogled all the paper products.
Tea and Mountains at Cha Cafe Asunaro
For lunch, I headed back into the mountains to dine at Cha Cafe Asunaro. This cafe has indoor seating as well as a patio that overlooks the Niyodo River. This river is famous for its blue waters, which are nicknamed “Niyodo Blue.” The view is exquisite!
The cold udon dish I ordered came with tea-flavored ice cubes that melted as I ate, adding flavor to the noodles.
The cafe also had a tasty combo meal, which included onigiri rolls, fried chicken, and a wide assortment of side dishes. This cafe was a definite highlight of the trip!
Hiking to Uryu Waterfall at Nakatsu Gorge
With my belly full, it was time to do some exercise and walk at the Nakatsu Gorge. It was only 10 minutes away from the Cha Cafe Asunaro.
I took the walking path along the river to Uryu Falls. The scenery along the way was non-stop breathtaking. Blue pools of water, red iron-filled rocks, mossy rock walls, a large red bridge… I was so happy walking because each step was so lovely.
Even in the heart of summer, the shaded trail and proximity to water made it a cool retreat.
Uryu Falls was amazing, and I captured photos just as the light was shining down onto the water from above.
Along the path, there were also 8 statues along the way to spot. I think I missed seeing one, but it added a fun game of I Spy to the walk.
The walk was relatively easy and extremely beautiful. Great bang for your buck! Another highly recommended spot for anyone visiting the area.
There is also an onsen bath at the nearby Nakatsukeikoku Yunomori Hotel for those looking to spend more time in the area. (Day–trip bathing is allowed.)
A Restful Retreat at Sorayama Guesthouse
That evening, I stayed the night at the Sorayama Guesthouse. I booked the special second-story room, which had a private balcony that overlooked the Kamiyakawa River. The entire space was a beautiful sanctuary with palpable closeness to nature.
Learn more about Sorayama Guesthouse in this article or book your stay.
Yakiniku in a Container Restaurant
For dinner, I had a fun yakiniku meal at CAFE and BEEFkaru, a restaurant operating out of a renovated shipping container!
Bath at Gohoku Musasabi Onsen
To end the day (and wash off the meat smells), I went to Gohoku Musasabi Onsen.
Day 3 – Kochi, Ehime, Okayama
Morning Breakfast Overlooking the Kamiyakawa River
The day started with a lovely breakfast on the private balcony. I enjoyed the fresh eggs, bread, and salad, as I watched the fish swim in the bright, clear water below.
Can’t every day start like this?
Blue Water at Niko-buchi Falls
After checking out of Sorayama, it was off to Niko-buchi, another waterfall known for its blue waters. There were many stairs (some of them slippery) that led down to the water’s edge. While I visited a bit too early to see the water at its best, it was still a fun excursion.
Seafood Lunch at Kyoraku
On my way back to Okayama, I stopped at Kyoraku in Ehime for a seafood lunch.
Heading Back to Okayama Along the Shimanami Kaido
After lunch, it was back to Okayama along the Shimanami Kaido! This route connects Ehime to Hiroshima across a series of bridges. I biked the Shimanami Kaido a few years back on a wonderful solo adventure. Learn more about Biking the Shimanami Kaido here!
Compared to biking, driving the bridges was much faster but not nearly as fun!
Returning the Car and Onwards!
I made it back to the rental car shop in Okayama and returned the car. This Shikoku grand adventure is complete!
Final Thoughts
Shikoku was amazing, and three days were too short to enjoy all that the area has to offer. All of the nature spots, including the rivers and waterfalls, were exceptional. I now understand why the region is so proud of its “Niyodo Blue.”
Recommended Posts
Interested in learning more about Shikoku? Check out this article about biking the Shimanami Kaido! Or watch the video here: