I finally got to visit a place that had been on my list for ages – Saga Prefecture’s “Hidden Pottery Village,” Okawachiyama!
People may be more familiar with Saga’s Arita area and Arita-yaki, but Okawachiyama is not to be overlooked!
This small village is home to around 25 kilns, whose potters have passed down the traditional techniques of Nabeshima porcelain making for generations.
Continue reading to learn what it’s like to visit Okawachiyama.
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About Okawachiyama
Okawachiyama sits at the base of mountains in Imari, Saga. It is nicknamed a “Hidden Pottery Village” because the area was once closed and monitored by checkpoints to keep the coveted pottery techniques and artisans within the village.
The porcelain produced in Okawachiyama, called “Nabeshima-yaki,” was regarded as the highest quality porcelain in Japan during the late 1600’s and was bestowed upon the Shogun and other noble figures.
Traveling to Okawachiyama
My travels to Okawachiyama began on a gray, rainy day. As I sat on the bus from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Expressway Bus Terminal to Imari Station, the window became speckled with water droplets, and the outside temperature dropped noticeably.
About an hour and a half later, I entered Saga; the city atmosphere completely replaced with sprawling fields and mountains with a delicate mist that rose above the trees.
From Imari Station, I took a taxi, and 15 minutes later, arrived at the entrance of Okawachiyama.
(For complete access information, see here.)
Exploring the Village
The village is quite small, but there are many little areas to explore and small details to appreciate.
Wandering along the streets and nearby mountains feels like a treasure hunt. You never know when a neat shop will appear around the corner or when you’ll run into interesting pieces of pottery inlaid into a wall or art piece.
Near the village entrance is the “checkpoint” gate. In the past, this used to be where people were cleared before entry and exit to the village. Nowadays, the wooden gate is merely symbolic, though it preserves memories of the past.
I exited the taxi outside the Imari-Nabeshima Kaikan building. Inside, there was a gallery of ceramic ware from different shops as well as a small cafe.
Visitors who arrive by car should park here, as walking around the village is advised since the streets are very narrow.
A large ceramic map with bright blue and white tiles artfully depicts Okawachiyama and the surrounding mountains.
The Nabeshima Domain Kiln Bridge is a beautiful work of art and an iconic emblem of the village. Large tiles make up the bridge’s body, with smaller pieces mosaiced along the sides. A large porcelain vase stands gracefully in the middle, its blue and red details glistening above the white background.
Beyond the bridge, a small walkway leads to another bridge. The ground here is scattered with pieces of old pottery.
Wind chimes twinkled softly as I crossed; the water below ran slowly by. As I reached the end of the bridge, a sensor triggered a melody of automated chimes.
Next, I discovered a small pond where three large karausu (wooden mortars) were fixed.
On one side of the mortar, a carved basin slowly filled with water. Once full, it tipped down, dumping the water out and sending the heavier opposite side smashing onto a pile of rock in a large seesaw motion.
Over time, the rock is pulverized into a powder that is used to make clay.
The splash of the water, creaking of the heavy wood, and crushing thud created a distinctive, tranquil melody.
Seeing these mortars reminded me of Onta Pottery Village in Oita, another place with karausu and named as one of Japan’s Top 100 Soundscapes.
Back in the middle of the village, I paused to catch another breathtaking view. A narrow, store-lined street stretched up towards the mountains, with a towering, jagged rock behind.
The gray sky, overcast clouds, and softly falling rain made for an especially moody atmosphere.
I spent the next part of my visit stepping in and out of different shops and browsing the shelves of pottery. Most of the products were of a similar style, which featured intricately drawn motifs like flowers and fruit in red, blue, and yellow over white or celadon.
Other pieces were decorated with loose brushstrokes and pops of color.
After a bit of walking, I headed inside to take a break at the Kosen Kiln Gallery, which had a small shop and cafe.
I cooled off with a refreshing mikan (orange) shaved ice and matcha float, all served in Nabeshima-ware. I figured it would be my last shaved ice of the season, so I savored its tart sweetness to the last bite. And the best part about the float? The thin coating of matcha that froze around the ice cream. Ah, what a nice treat and beautiful pottery to enjoy it with!
Back to my wanderings outside, I stumbled across another bridge adorned with porcelain pieces and found tiny frogs hopping around the damp ground. (Can you spot the frog below?)
In the center of the village is a small guest house called basecamp Imari.
I was considering a stay here, but in the end, I opted to do a day trip instead of staying overnight. This seems like a good option, if not the only option for accommodations in Okawachiyama.
My walk started to wind upwards. I passed by small pottery fixtures and swatted away unwanted mosquitoes until I reached the top of the Nabeshima Domain Park. I wouldn’t really call it a park, as it is just a wide clearing above the village.
I also passed this small climbing kiln or noborigama.
Next I headed across the village to climb up to Take Shrine. The rain helped cool me down, but the endless steps made the trek quite taxing, so I started sweating profusely.
Since when is rain salty? Never mind, that’s my sweat!
The steps were large and uneven, but I continued on to the top. The surrounding crickets and cicadas cheered me on with their chirping. Which made me realize – Wow, there are still cicadas here! (All the ones in the city have since disappeared).
About 15 minutes and some tired legs later, I had made it to Take Shrine! At the top, a wide platform built into the rock lets visitors make offerings and say their prayers.
On a whim, I walked around the back and found statues sitting in carved-out pockets of the wall. How neat!
The shrine was a great landmark, but getting up was not a walk in the park.
After exploring, it was time to head back to Imari Station and onwards back to Fukuoka. Thank you, Okawachiyama, for the visit!
Final Thoughts
Okawachiyama made for a great weekend day trip, and I enjoyed the area’s quiet stillness. Besides a few other visitors, the streets were relatively quiet and still.
The scenery that surrounds the village is also unique, so visitors can enjoy interesting views from many different places.
Nabeshima-style pottery is ornate and delicate, so it might not be for everybody. Even so, I still think visiting Okawachiyama is worth it. There are few places as beautiful and open where you can wander around and immerse yourself in the history of Japan’s pottery.
Okawachiyama can be easily reached on a day trip from Fukuoka, or can be part of a larger pottery expedition that covers other areas in Saga like Arita. Learn more about Arita and its famous Pottery Festival here!
Access – How to Get to Okawachiyama Pottery Village
Driving is the easiest way to get to Okawachiyama since it is located in the mountains away from central areas of public transportation.
Without a car, take trains or a bus to Imari Station and then take a taxi or catch the local bus to the village.
From Fukuoka, highway buses depart from Tenjin and Hakata and take just under 2 hours. The fare is 2,040 yen one way or 4,000 yen round trip if the tickets are bought together.
Payment can be made on the bus via IC card or credit card on the bus or you can get your ticket from a machine at the station beforehand.
See the bus timetable here (Japanese).
When I visited, taxis were waiting at Imari Station. The ride to Okawachiyama takes about 15 minutes and costs ~2,000 yen.
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