Even though the recent weeks have been scorching hot and what I look forward to most on weekends is relaxing in an air-conditioned room, I made it out of the house and into the summer heat to attend the 73rd Tobata Gion Oyamagasa Festival. Here’s a recap of my experience at the festival!
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Tobata Gion Oyamagasa Festival History
The Tobata Gion Oyamagasa Festival takes place in Tobata, Kitakyushu, over three days. The main event (the evening parade and transformation of floats into glowing mountains) occurs on the evening of the middle day.
The festival dates back more than 210 years and is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage and Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.
Records from the Tobata Hiachimangu Shrine detail an epidemic in 1802. In order to eradicate the epidemic, large prayer ceremonies were held, and eventually the sickness subsided. In July of the following year, a float was made to celebrate in what continues to this day as the Tobata Gion Oyamagasa Festival.
This is one of Fukuoka Prefecture’s main summer festivals, so if you are in the area, be sure to check it out!
Getting to Tobata Station
I took the Sonic Nichirin JR train from Hakata Station to Tobata Station. Using a recently downloaded JR Kyushu app, I was able to get discounted tickets for 1,550 yen each way.
There is also a regular train that is slightly cheaper but takes a bit longer, at 60-80 minutes.
Inside the express car, I settled into the reserved seats, grateful for the air conditioning. The ride was quick, and 40 minutes later, we had arrived!
Walking to the Main Area
At Tobata Station, I received a pamphlet about the festival (in Japanese) as well as hand fans. These would come in handy!
I had read about there being a bus from the station to the festival area, but when I inquired, I found out that since the road closes for the evening festival, the only way to access it is by walking.
The walk wasn’t bad, about 15 minutes through a covered arcade and through a street of colorful food stalls.
There was a large Aeon Mall right by the station – a good place to stop by to get snacks and drinks beforehand.
Compared to other festivals, it was less crowded and crazy, which was a plus.
On the street were many men dressed in the traditional festival wear – a headband, happi coat, belly band, and shorts. On the back of the coats, a bright red kanji character designated their affiliation.
I had eaten before leaving for the festival, but walking through the street of food stalls got my stomach excited. Since the lines weren’t too long, I decided to get a few snacks before settling down.
The first stall I visited was a shaved ice stall. For 400 yen, I received a bowl of ice and added the syrup toppings myself. It was far from the fluffy kind of shaved ice that has spoiled me at cafes, but in the heat, the coldness was still much welcomed.
I also snacked on some karaage and a baked cheese coin.
Stomach satiated, I headed towards the Tobata Ward Office, where the main event would be taking place.
There was a Tsuruha Drug store nearby, another convenient place to pick up extra goods and refreshments if needed.
Tickets for Reserved Seats
I had bought tickets for the reserved seated section a few days prior, so I was able to enter a special area to see the festival. (Event page)
If you arrive a bit early, tickets aren’t necessary for a good spot, but since there isn’t much room for sitting, you’ll most likely be standing.
I was surprised I could get tickets last minute and had wavered about whether it was necessary to buy tickets at all.
But after experiencing the ticketed section with its theater-like raised seats and easy access to an indoor air-conditioned bathroom, I can say it was a good purchase. The tickets were 5,500 yen each.
Since I arrived early, I waited for about 45 minutes before the main festivities began. It was super hot, but bringing a sun parasol and having hand fans were a lifesaver.
Let the Festival Begin!
The festival started at 6:30 pm, with opening welcomes and greetings from various members. Then there was a musical Gion Bayashi taiko drum and flute performance.
At around 7 pm, the floats were carried around the triangular road around Asao No. 1 Park, hoisted on the shoulders of the happi-clad men. 4 large floats were carried by adults, and several smaller floats were carried by younger children.
After a few rounds, the floats were set down and preparation for the evening lantern transformation began. The decorations used for the daytime float were removed and replaced with wooden scaffolding to hold rows of lit lanterns.
At around 7:35 pm, the great transformation started. The teams raced to decorate the floats with the prepared lanterns, the quickest team finishing in roughly 30 seconds! The speed was incredible, and it was over too fast.
In just a few minutes, the sunset sky was filled with the golden glow of lanterns.
The biggest floats were now 2.5 tons, 10 meters tall, and stacked with 12 tiers of lanterns. They glowed brightly like tall Christmas trees.
Once all the floats had transformed, they were paraded around again. The warm glow made for a completely different vibe than before.
Final Thoughts
I’m glad that I finally made it to this festival! It was worth braving the heat to see the floats transform into glowing mountains and to immerse myself in the lively and festive atmosphere.
Since the streets get very busy with spectators, I highly recommend getting reserved seats to best see the action. The view from above is superb, and your legs will thank you! Compared to other festivals like the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, this one is smaller and much easier to navigate and observe.
Don’t forget to bring lots of water and sun protection!
Resources
Other Events in Fukuoka?
Looking to experience other unique events in Fukuoka? Check out these articles!
Fukuoka City’s Famous Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival – this is another summer festival that takes place in the heart of Fukuoka City. The highlight takes place in the morning on July 15th, when decorated floats are raced around the city.
Dazaifu Tenmangu’s Onisube Fire Festival – 鬼すべ – this is a stunning fire festival that takes place in Fukuoka’s Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.
Chikugo River Festival – Watch a beautiful display of fireworks over the Chikugo River!