Yakushima Island is a beautiful, remote island off the southern tip of Kyushu. With its subtropical climate, maze of mountain trails, mossy forests, and historic cedar trees – some thousands of years old – it’s truly a hiker and nature lover’s paradise.
Fans of Ghibli Studio may also want to visit the island as one of its forests is said to have inspired Hayao Miyazaki’s film, Princess Mononoke.
Continue reading to learn about what I did and where I stayed during my recent 3-night, 4-day trip on the island.
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The information below was written based on a trip completed in May 2026. Be sure to check for the most recent travel information before your trip.
- Trip Summary
- Hiking and Exploring Yakushima Vlog
- Yakushima Travelogue & Guide
- How to Access Yakushima
- Traveling Around the Island
- What to Pack
- 4 Day Itinerary
- Day 1 – Welcome to Yakushima! Staying at a Forest Lodge and Trying Local Dishes
- Day 2 – Yakusugi Land Tachudake Hike & Overnight at Yaedake Sanso Lodge
- Day 3 – Shiratani Unsuikyo Hike, Waterfalls & Overnight at Hotel Yakushima Ocean and Forest
- Day 4 – Driving Around the Island
- Final Thoughts
- Other Recommended Trips for Outdoor Enthusiasts
Trip Summary
Here is a short summary of my visit:
- Day 1:
- Fly to Yakushima from Fukuoka
- Local Dinner in Miyanoura
- Overnight at the Yaedake Sanso Forest Lodge
- Day 2:
- Yakusugi Land – Tachudake Hike
- Lunch in Anbo
- Dinner and Overnight at Yaedake Sanso Lodge
- Day 3:
- Shiratani Unsuikyo Hike (Princess Mononoke Forest!)
- Waterfall Sightseeing
- Dinner and Overnight at Hotel Yakushima Ocean and Forest
- Day 4:
- Island Drive
- Depart from Yakushima
Hiking and Exploring Yakushima Vlog
Come along the journey and see the stunning forests up close! The sounds of the water and birds are a calming treat you won’t want to miss.
Yakushima Travelogue & Guide
This article gives a broad overview of what I did and where I stayed during my time on Yakushima.
If you are planning your own trip and want more detailed information, check out the Yakushima Travelogue & Guide, which dives deeper into the trip contents, includes a pinned Google Map of sightseeing spots, and is full of first-person travel insight. Coming soon!
How to Access Yakushima
Yakushima is a small island located south of the Kyushu mainland.
The common ways to reach the island are by high-speed jetfoil, ferry, or direct flight.
Since weather plays an important factor in planning trips to Yakushima, make sure to buffer your travel for possible delays and cancellations.
Sea
The Toppy / Rocket Jet Foil departs from Kagoshima and is the fastest sea option, reaching Yakushima in 2 hours. Learn more, check the timetable, and make reservations here.
The slower Yakushima 2 ferry takes 4 hours.
The overnight ferry leaves Kagoshima (Taniyama Port) at 18:00 and arrives at Miyanoura Port the next morning at 07:00.
Air
Direct flights are operated by Japan Air Commuter (JAL) and run between Kagoshima Airport, Fukuoka, and Osaka (Itami).
The most frequent and reliable flights are from Kagoshima Airport and take only 35 minutes.
The flight from Fukuoka takes a little over an hour, while the flight from Itami is about 1 hour 35 minutes.
Traveling Around the Island
During my trip, I used a rental car to get around the island. Some buses run around the island, but these are quite limited and run infrequently. The schedule also makes it difficult to start hikes early in the morning and on your own schedule.
If at all possible, I recommend traveling by car. There are only a few rental car companies around the island, so secure your reservations well in advance.
During my stay, I saw several people biking around the island. While this is another option, it should only be done by advanced bikers, as there is limited shade, a lot of elevation change, and wild monkeys.
What to Pack
Happy travels always begin with solid preparation. For those planning to hike in Yakushima, come prepared for rain and changing weather conditions. Since I traveled in May when the weather is more temperate but there is still a high possibility of rain, I packed mainly quick-drying clothes and hiking gear.
Check out the Yakushima Travelogue & Guide for my full packing list. (Coming soon!)
4 Day Itinerary
My main goals for the trip were to hike in different locations, eat local food, see several sightseeing spots, and relax at each accommodation. The 4 days were packed, but the below itinerary included a solid mix of activities and relaxation.
Day 1 – Welcome to Yakushima! Staying at a Forest Lodge and Trying Local Dishes
Travel to Yakushima Airport
My travels started with a short flight from Fukuoka Airport to Yakushima Airport. The flight was about 1 hour and 15 minutes and was over before I knew it.
I arrived in Yakushima at around 3:00 pm.
After picking up my bags, someone from the Nissan rental car company met me and drove me to the shop just a few minutes away.
The car rental process was straightforward, and soon I was off to explore the island!
Overnight at Yaedake Sanso Lodge
It was about a 15-minute drive from the airport to the accommodation for the evening: Yaedake Sanso Lodge.
This lodge is located in the mountains and can be a bit tricky to access since Google Maps directs you down the wrong street. But I made it, and it was a lovely place right next to a crystal clear river. (Guests can borrow kayaks from the lodge for free).
My room was like a small cabin, with tall wooden ceilings and a little porch. It felt so cozy and outdoorsy!
Dinner at Wakadaisho & Walking the Miyanoura Area
After relaxing at the lodge, it was time for dinner. I had made reservations at Wakadaisho in Miyanoura, about a 5-minute drive from the lodge.
The restaurant served many Yakushima specialties, including deep-fried flying fish!
The entire fish was deep-fried with its “wings” still in flying position. I was told that everything could be eaten, including the fins, bones, head, and tail!
Another first for me was butter-grilled barnacles or カメノテ (kamenote). After peeling open the soft shell, the inside meat could be enjoyed.
After the meal, I walked around by the water. The views were lovely everywhere I looked.
Back at the lodge, I washed up, then went to bed around 8 pm. It was an early evening since the next day would be an early morning!
Day 2 – Yakusugi Land Tachudake Hike & Overnight at Yaedake Sanso Lodge
Day 2 started dark and early at 4 am.
Before heading out, I picked up premade meals that our lodge had prepared for us. Then it was into the car for a drive to Yakusugi Land.
Hiking Mt. Tachudake and Yakusugi Land
The main activity for today was hiking Mt. Tachudake in Yakusugi Land.
Yakusugi Land was designated a National Recreational Forest in 1974. The forest covers over 270 hectares and is filled with sugi cedar trees, rivers, lush moss, and wildlife like monkeys and deer.
In Yakusugi Land, there are 5 courses to choose from, each of varying length and difficulty. See the official area brochure and map here.
- 30-minute (.8km)
- 50-minute (1.2km)
- 80-minute (2.0km)
- 150-minute (3.0km)
- 210-minute (4.4km)
I chose to hike the longest trail with an additional section to Mt. Tachudake.
The hike started easy, with mostly level walking along a wooden boardwalk. Right from the beginning, there were many interesting cedar trees to enjoy, such as the Sennensugi (1,000-year cedar).
After crossing the Arakawa suspension bridge, the route became steeper and more mountainous. It also began to rain! Good thing I had packed rain gear; otherwise I would have gotten soaked.
This is another good time to reiterate that it rains on Yakushima. So much so that people say it rains 35 days a month. (Yes, this is an exaggeration, but this is meant to convey just how much it can rain on the island.)
At the very top of the hike were about 5 areas with steep rope scrambles. These required careful footing, a bit of stretching, and sometimes some extra arm strength to get up.
My legs were tired by the end, but I made it to the top of Mt. Tachu and the massive Tenchuseki Rock!
It was ridiculously windy and cold at the top of the rock, and sadly I didn’t have a great view – just a rolling sea of white fog.
Though it was awfully chilly, I ate my lunch at the top of the rock.
The rest of the hike took a few more hours and included more bridges. By the time I finished the loop and made it back to the parking lot, I was exhausted!!
The hike took 7.5 hours to complete, including stops for snacks and photos along the way. It ended up raining twice, so it was key to have rain gear.
Before heading down the mountain, I stopped at the Shinsen store, purchased a bottle of Pocari Sweat, and browsed the special Yakushima cedar souvenirs.
Lunch at Warung Karang
Heading down the mountain, I was famished and ready for lunch. It was a bit after normal lunch hours, so not many places were open, but a restaurant called Warung Karang was.
This restaurant looks out over the water, so it was a nice place to enjoy the view.
Evening at Yaedake Sanso Lodge
After lunch, I was drained and ready for rest.
For dinner, I enjoyed a nice meal served at the lodge. Today’s meal also included deep-fried flying fish! It was a delicious meal and a great way to end a long day.
I went to bed early again!
Day 3 – Shiratani Unsuikyo Hike, Waterfalls & Overnight at Hotel Yakushima Ocean and Forest
After “sleeping in” a bit, I woke up at 5 am.
Hiking Shiratani Unsuikyo (Princess Mononoke’s Forest)
The big activity for today was hiking at Shiratani Unsuikyo. The drive to the area was only about 20 minutes.
When I arrived around 6 am, there were a few cars already parked in the parking lot.
Just like at Yakusugi Land, there are several trails at Shiratani Unsuikyo of varying length and difficulty.
- Yayoisugi Cedar Course – about 2 km, 1-hour hike
- Bugyosugi Cedar Course – about 4 km, 3-hour hike
- Taikoiwa Rock Round Trip Course – about 5.6 km, 4-hour hike
Find more details about the trails and map in the official brochure.
I combined the Bugyosugi Cedar Course and the Taikoiwa Rock Course for a hike of about 8.5 km (5.3 miles) and an elevation gain of ~1,600 feet.
The hike started with a gradual uphill climb, first along a paved road before eventually breaking off into the mountain.
There were several places where I crossed the water, hopping from mossy stone to mossy stone. I was lucky that there hadn’t been much rain before since the trail can close if the water rises too high.
The views were simply incredible. Words can’t do the beauty of the forest proper justice. Here are a few more pictures.
Near marker #13, there was a small mountain hut and restroom. Hikers who spend multiple days in the forest use huts like this for evening shelters.
After the mountain hut, I reached the special moss forest that inspired Princess Mononoke!
A bit of a climb more and I made it to the top! There was a lovely view of the valley below, and for a split second, I could see the granite rock I had climbed on yesterday’s hike.
Eating on the rock wasn’t allowed, so after taking in the view, I headed down to the clearing below for a snack.
Overall, this was an easier and slightly shorter hike than the one to Tachudake the day before. It was still long though – taking a little over 5 hours with breaks and snacks.
Lunch at Tobisaba
Back down the mountain, it was time for lunch! I headed to Tobisaba, a recently opened ramen shop in the Miyanoura area.
Toroki Falls
With the hiking now complete, it was time to explore other parts of the island! I first visited Toroki Falls.
At the nearby Potan Hall where the car was parked, I enjoyed some delicious Hojicha Milk Tea gelato and picked up some Yakushima souvenirs.
Senpiro Falls
The next stop was Senpiro Falls. This waterfall was pretty far away, but looked quite stunning next to the huge sloping rock and carpet of trees behind.
Overnight at Hotel Yakushima Ocean and Forest
It was finally time to check into our next accommodation, Hotel Yakushima Ocean & Forest.
This hotel is located in the Miyanoura area and overlooks the sea. The Japanese-style room had tatami floors and futon beds. (Western-style rooms are also available)
I enjoyed the hotel’s public bath, which had a cold pool and sauna! It was the perfect way to relax after an active past few days.
For dinner, I ate in a large dining room and had a course meal that included sashimi, an appetizer set, Yakushima pork shabu shabu, beef stew, simmered veggies, steamed yam, soup, rice, and mango pudding.
What a good meal to finish the day. There was a beautiful sunset too!
Day 4 – Driving Around the Island
I started the day with breakfast at the hotel. There was a nice buffet with a decent variety to satisfy both a Japanese and Western palate.
After checking out of the hotel, it was time to head around the island driving in a counter-clockwise direction.
Yakushima is about 100km in circumference and can be driven around in about 3 hours, not including stops.
Yūhi no Oka Scenic Space
Popped off the road at this little scenic space. There was a nice view of the water and coast. This is supposedly a good place to watch the sunset!
Inakahama Beach
Further down the road, I stopped at Inakahama Beach.
In the spring, turtles come here to lay their eggs! Because of this, the beach is closed in the evening, and certain spots are roped off to protect their nests. It was cool to see the turtle tracks in the sand.
Monkeys on the Road
Since the central and western part of Yakushima is a designated World Heritage property, drivers need to be especially careful since the road is narrow, winding, and full of monkeys!
From Inakahama Beach, the road became single-lane, and I encountered LOTS of wild monkeys on the road.
Oko Waterfall
We made it to another waterfall! From the parking lot, it was a short walk to Oko Waterfall, which is much closer and streams down from above.
Unmanned Jelly and Pudding Stand
This unmanned Jelly and Pudding stand off the side of the road was a great stop for a little snack! Each item was 300 yen and was stored in a small fridge.
Payment is by the honor system, though there was a camera attached. The flavors were very refreshing!
Hirauchi Ocean Onsen
A little further from the unmanned stand was the Hirauchi Ocean Onsen. This is a natural onsen that is accessible at low tide and connects right to the sea.
I didn’t go in, but saw that it was mixed gender style bathing.
Lunch at Yakushima Chaya Kodama
Continuing around the island, I stopped for lunch at Yakushima Chaya Kodama. It was a cute cafe that was Princess Mononoke and Kodama (Japanese forest spirit) themed.
Final Farewell
After lunch, it was time to head to the airport. I filled up gas beforehand and returned the car to the rental car shop.
I was sad to leave such a beautiful island after a wonderful couple of days.
Final Thoughts
And that’s a wrap! I left Yakushima and headed back to Fukuoka on the same small plane I had come on.
Yakushima was simply incredible and exceeded my expectations. The forests were magical, the sea and sky both shades of lovely blue. I was very lucky with the weather too, with only a few spouts of rain on the second day.
This is an incredible place, and I know I’ll be back again, possibly to hike Mt. Miyanoura, Kyushu’s highest peak. Until then, I’ll dream about the kodama forest spirits and the lovely green!
Other Recommended Trips for Outdoor Enthusiasts
Looking for other outdoor trips in Japan? I recommend these!
- Hiking the Kumano Kodo (Nakahechi Route, 5 Days): Complete Itinerary and Guide – Embark on a pilgrimage through the forests of the Kii Peninsula and see the grand shrines of the region.
- Solo Hiking the Nakasendo Trail: Complete Guide and Itinerary – Walk through Japan’s historic road that once connected Edo Japan with Kyoto.
- Solo Biking the Shimanami Kaido: A Complete Guide – A thrilling bike ride across bridges that stretch across the Seto Island Sea. A trip that can be done in one day or across multiple days.
- Kamikochi Day Trip Guide – Spend time in the refreshing northern Alps of Japan where clear river waters and stunning mountain scenery abound.